LE DEJEUNER EN FOURRURE

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Creative Direction and prints ALESSIONESI Photography SIMON Model CAROLEVITETTA @URBNMODELS

Nude Blouse, Desire Claim Fame, L’Obscur Eve Black, may seem like titles taken from a surrealistic film playlist, instead they are names of products taken from Spring-Summer 2020 make-up collections. Color mood: a wide palette with exuberant and irreverent colors, between which pink, this season’s color , which has always been a desire for light-heartedness messenger. Lipsticks, nail polishes, blushes, eye-shadows, declined in the most pale and romantic tones, up to the most intrusive fuchsia, with a rock soul, passing through salmon tones, until it disappears in the incendiary shades of red which extinguishes itself in rouge noir. For a bright and sexier face. Summer make-up chooses the impact of minimum terms and avant-garde paths to recompose as it was a collage, the high rate of contemporary femininity.

Couture Blush 5 Nude Blouse – Eau De Parfum LIBRE by YSL

Le Phyto Gloss 10 Star SISLEY PARIS – Phyto-Poudre Compacte Cocoa Cupuaçu Mango – Phyto Hydra Teint Beautifying tinted moisturizer 2 Medium SPF 15 SISLEY PARIS

Resilience Multi-Effect Tri-Peptide Face and Neck Creme SPF15 – Lipstick Desire 213 Claim Fame Matte ESTEE LAUDER

Eau de Parfum Tuscan Leather Intense – Lip Color Rouge a Levres Black Orchid  TOM FORD

Poudre DE Beauté Mat Naturel – Rouge À Lèvres Voile Eadie Scarlet 502 – Mascara L’Obscur EVE BLACK 1 GUCCI

O! Mega Shadow Moment-O! 590Enamored Dazzling Gloss Lip Lacquer 380 Tempt Me MARC JACOBS

 

GOOD THINGS OF BAD TASTE

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Photography SIMON Realization ALESSIONESI

A postcard of a distant journey, the starched lace doily, framed flowers, the ancient and renowned pastry shop, the kitch porcelain figurine from the fifties, the pile of dusty books:”Good things of bad taste” as Guido Gozzano writes in I Colloqui, 1911. Objects and rituals crushed by the weight of their daily lives which assimilate the totality of living and then explode again in your chest; passepartout of our contemporaneity to tell the olfactory harmonies of new season. Sillage with familiar scents. Floral bouquets capable of flying far away. They are not just a journey into nature, but an introspective research in the most remote and melancholy ego immersed in a twilight atmosphere. Playing with the symbols of fashion, time, the little things that surround us every day, even a fragrance, in its individual season, can be queen of transitory and aware of its eternity.

Edp Good Girl Suprême CAROLINA HERRERA

Absolu De Parfum Nomande by CHLOÉ

Yuja Cologne JO MALONE LONDON

Edp Gorgeous Gardenia Flora GUCCI

Edp Twist MIU MIU

Edp Collection Extraordinaire Néroli Amara N01783MG VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

 Edp A Girl In Capri LANVIN

 

BEAUTY NO GENDER

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Creative Direction ALESSIONESI

Photography SIMON

Model GIACOMOCALDANA @urbnmodels

Management Assistant ANNALISAPARISI

New treatments emancipate from the cult of appearance. Cosmetics, a sector that has always marked the gender aspect, redraws boundaries by widening the offer and by outlining the space in which people can identify the new codes of gender movement. Non-gender products incorporate an original tension towards provocation, cleverly controlled through choices which respect the environment, conceived specifically for the digital age; they are treatments with formulas enriched with cutting-edge active ingredients enclosed in a neutral design and are addressed to those who do not like to stay long in front of the mirror. Light fragrances and pleasantly soft, ultra-smooth textures which create a bright complexion with a simple touch.

Phyto Hydra Teint SPF15 SILSEY PARIS

Crema Corpo Anti-Age DR. BARBARA STURM

Crema da barba “DOERS OF LONDON SHAVE CREAM”

Detergente THE CLEANSING FOAM LA MER

Pure Shots Hydra Bounce Essence-In-Lotion YSLBeauty

Body Spray “BEAU DE JOUR” TOM FORD

 

QUANDO FUORI C’È IL SOLE

Fashion shooting  per leggere il testo in italiano apri il link di VIRALWAVE.IT

Creative Direction ALESSIONESI

Photography SIMON

Model GIACOMO CALDANA @URBNMODELS

Management Assistant ANNALISA PARISI

From beauty to fashion. Skin care formulas and neutral design silhouettes define aesthetic of the new decade.

The “No-gender” as professionals call it, is a way to communicate to a male and female audience with products that leverage general aspirations, bypassing gender differences. Beauty has decided not to deprive itself of this trend that leverages new relationships established between couples and not even fashion, that shows androgynous and casual collections with light bodies. It is a new lifestyle. Boundaries are blurred. There is masculinity in women and vice versa. It is a form of disguise that affects all fields from fashion to beauty to design. A more playful approach is established with one’s identity: it is current society that requires flexibility, at work, in daily occupations, in relationships with others. The traditional models of eternal male and female do not disappear completely but the expression of identity becomes freer and more open. A new balance is established, in which each sex borrows from the other what finds good and useful. The evolution of current aestheticism is called beauty sharing; shared agreements, from cosmetics to fashion collections. Women use male moisturizers as well as men wear female clothes. He and She sublimate themselves in a two-way neutral identity that acquire a rediscovered rituality in the present moment, for new and old generations. Style of the new decade has been served.

Reggicalze da uomo + calze nere filo di Scozia PIERRE CARDIN  Slip INTIMISSIMI

Sospensorio CALVIN KLEIN

Slip RAGNO Bretelle EMPORIO ARMANI

Slip + calze CALVIN KLEIN

Slip SLOGGI

Collant CALZEDONIA Slip INTIMISSIMI

Slip PEROFIL Maglione CAROL CHRISTIAN POELL FW1997 (Private Collection)

Slip + T-shirt  N21

Slip e guêpière INTIMISSIMI

Cappellino da baseball N21slip JULIPET

Slip MOSCHINO Anfibi N21 + calze nere filo di Scozia GALLO

Slip MANIERE ITALIANE

 

DOMESTIC SAFARI

First fashion shooting for VIRALWAVE.IT

Creative Direction ALESSIONESI Photography SIMON Make-Up & Hair Style GIOVANNI IOVINE @wmmanagement Model OPHELIA KUMBE @majormodelsmilan Management Assistant ANNALISA PARISI

Total Look ALBERTA FERRETTI SS 20 Make-Up: Foundation and Powder MAC STUDIO, Eyel Pencil, Fluid Sheer N10, Lipstick Rouge all ARMANI BEAUTY

Foulard MARELLA by ALESSIONESI Wunderkammer Collection SS20 Bracelet ELENA ZANELLATO Skin: BIODERMAITALIA Solution Micellar, AVEDA ITALIABotanical Kinetics, Eau de Beautè and Pureness Matyfyng CAUDALIE.

Total Look MAX MARA SS20

Total Look PHYLOSOPHY by LORENZO SERAFINI SS20

Sandal by PHYLOSOPHY by LORENZO SERAFINI SS20

Kaftano by LUCIO VANOTTI SS20 Neckless ILENIA CORTI VERNISSAGE

Hat TOPSHOP + Foulard Foulard MARELLA by ALESSIONESI Wunderkammer Collection SS20

 

COLOR GAMES

Text and illustrations  ALESSIONESI

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Go beyond. Smile. Be positive. Cosmetic houses are reinventing a healthy ideal of beauty through the secret power of colors in their new summer make-up collections, made irresistible by the intense flashes of twilight, by the paradisiacal landscapes of the desert and tropical forests. From the love of nature, unexpected games of colors are born, nuances with opaque and shiny textures. Like the memory of a dream.

Summer Look SS20 Eye Color Quad 26 Leopard Sun TOM FORD SS20

Summer Look SS20 Rouge Allure 607 Camélia Rouge Métal CHANEL

Summer Look SS20 Mineral Nude Bronze Light 001 DIOR

Eau de Parfum L’Interdit by GIVENCHY

Summer Look SS20 Rouge Pure Couture The Slim N°21 YSL

Summer Look SS20: Phyto Rouge N°31 Orange Acapulco, Phyto-Blush Twist N°1 Petal, So Intense Eyeliner, SISLEY PARIS

 

PFW: SAINT LAURENT’S FEMALE PERVERSIONS

Anthony Vaccarello, creative director of SAINT LAURENT, is increasingly looking for that ready-to-wear immediately consumable, trading, without regrets, the work of model maker for that of designer. The new FW20 collection is the apotheosis of erotism, theme very dear to Monsieur Yves. A bourgeois and refined De Sade’s like fetishism. The silhouette of classic shapes winks at the 80s, updating a palette of neon colors. Latex leggings, dresses, jackets, blouses and knee-length skirts, emphasize a perverse, authoritative and casual femininity. Style versus Couture? It is the price to pay when returning to concreteness of product you lose the research of new shapes close to divination.

SAINT LAURENT FW20

SAINT LAURENT FW20

SAINT LAURENT FW20

SAINT LAURENT FW20

SAINT LAURENT FW20

SAINT LAURENT FW20

 

MFW: ALESSANDRO DELL’ACQUA CELEBRATES TEN YEARS OF N21

Pret-à-porter, after seasons in overdose of street fashion and brainstorm of forgettable influencers, abandons the excesses of catwalks and regains its adequate elegance. Finally we return to rigor: fashionable as a project instead of ephemeral narration, letting style give an unrepeatable value to the wearer. At N21, Alessandro Dell’Acqua celebrates brand’s ten years through the cornerstones of his style: androgyny, lingerie and feathers, thickening in a bourgeois silhouette immersed in a neo punk atmosphere – chains and safety pins frame each oufit – the vision is as superb as the performance. Its possible to breathe the certainty of a renewed honesty as well as the return of designers to product care and less to storytelling.

N21 FW20

N21 FW20

N21 FW20

N21 FW20

N21 FW20

N21 FW20

 

NO GENDER COLLECTIONS

FROM BEAUTY TO FASHION. SKIN CARE FORMULAS AND NEUTRAL DESIGN SILHOUETTES DEFINE THE THE AESTHETICS OF THE NEW DECADE.  

Non-gender as professionals call it is a way of communicating to a male and female audience with products that leverage general aspirations, by passing gender differences. Today it is of great trend in the fields of food (some foods such as yogurt, for example, have often been considered for females and others, such as wines, purely male and communication was declined accordingly) music and furnishings and it touches the territories of cosmetics and fashion.

 Editorial from L’Hofficiel Homme Italia MAISON MARGIELA ARTISANAL AW19 designed by John Galliano Photographed by Kito Munoz Styled by Luca Guarini.

Beauty has decided not to deprive itself of this trend that leverages the new relationships established between couples and not even Fashion does it; infact shows androgynous and casual collections with light silhouettes . It is a new lifestyle. Boundaries are blurred. There is masculinity in women and vice versa. It is a form of disguise that affects all fields: from fashion to beauty, to design. A more playful approach is established with one’s own identity: current society requires flexibility, in work, in daily jobs, in relationships with others. Values ​​and recent political and financial crises have called everything into question. Traditional models of eternal male and female do not disappear completely but the expression of identity becomes freer and more open. A new balance is established, in which each sex borrows from the other what finds good and useful.

From left: Emulsion Ecologique by SISLEY PARIS; Him/Her Lip Balm by GIORGIO ARMANI

The cosmetic sector, that has always marked the gender aspect, redesigns borders by widening the offer. The taboo was broken in 2016 by Canadian brand MACCOSMETICS, which proposed a collection of unisex make-up, aimed at an indifferently male and female audience. Giorgio Armani made his voyage into gender free with a Him/Her lip balm. It perfectly matches male needs for the speed and the ease of its application as well as female ones as a base for lipsticks or as a top coat with a satin effect. Another interesting example is Emulsion Ecologique by Sisley Paris, an essential treatment with a plant-based texture. it hydrates and protects skin from stress. Men like it for its light texture and practical bottle design.

 From above: Collection AW2020 RANDOM IDENTITIESCollection AW2020 FENDI

From cosmetic to fashion the step was short. In the latest men fashion shows, from Pittmagine passing from Milano Collezioni to “la ville lumiere”, we have seen the rise of fashion brands that release themselves from too defined models. RANDOM IDENTITIES for example, Stefano Pilati’s label, is, already in its own name, a binomial where Random represents the randomness of existence and Identities comes as a response to this randomness, defining the space in which people can identify the new codes of movement gender. Stefano Pilati’s new project is a ready-to-wear collection designed specifically for the digital age.

From above: Collection AW2020 GUCCI; Collection AW2020 N21Collection AW2020 DRIES VAN NOTEN;Collection AW2020 GIVENCHY;

The non-gender garments incorporate an original tension towards provocation, skillfully controlled through monochromatic choices and neat details. Even in the collections by GUCCI, FENDI, N21by ALESSANDRO DELL’ACQUA, RICK OWENS, VALENTINO, DRIES VAN NOTEN, CHRISTIAN DIOR, GIVENCHY men could exchange clothes with women and nobody would notice.

 From above: Collection AW2020 RICK OWENS Collection AW2020 VALENTINOCollection AW2020 LOUIS VUITTON

The evolution of current aestheticism is called beauty sharing, true sharing agreements, from cosmetics to fashion collections. Even women use male moisturizers as well as men wear female clothes. He and she sublimate themselves in a neutral two-way identity that acquires in the present a rediscovered rituality for new and old generations in the present. The style of the new decade has been served.

 Body jewelry AW2020 by LUDOVIC de SAINT SERNIN

 

CHANEL’S TAILLEUR A TIMELESS CLASSIC

Fashion is frivolous, but of a very heavy frivolity. It is constantly changing, it is unpredictable. And yet in its incessant derailment it is penetrating. It reflects and distorts the present, announces the future and not only in the wardrobe. The dress it has always been an inescapable sign of a change taking place in society, it is a Status-Symbol. In particular the “Tailleur”. Created at the beginning of the 1920s by Coco Chanel, it is the symbol of Bourgeoisie’s discreet charm. Of what is aesthetically acceptable for ladies with a capital L: bejeweled with a rich husband and a waitress always following her. In an atmosphere of insidious respectability, Coco Chanel has created a costume revolution that is not entirely came to an end, not even today. Feminine manifesto it represents a will of appearance and a narcissistic desire.

A celebration of fashion and popular culture of the atomic age. Long live ’50’s glamour!

Since its birth our “Tailleur”, has started an evolution of shapes and volumes throughout the decades of the fast century. Geometric and sober in the 1920s. Jacket with geometric shoulders and knee-length skirt in the 1940s. With straight skirts in the Fifties, in contrast to models with mileage lenght fabrics Dior-style. Mini, essential and futuristic in the Sixties. Colorful and irreverent in the seventies. With padded shoulders in the 1980s, to exhibit power in business locations. Anorexic and colorless in the nineties.

Inès de la Fressange poses as COCO CHANEL in Chanel’s own apartment 1981. Photo JEAN-CLAUDE SAUER 

Until we arrive to our days with an untouched silhouette. Every female icon that wore it has shaped it according to their own style according to the era in which they lived. In pink for Jacqueline Kennedy. White for Marilyn Monroe. Sulfurous but not funereal Maria Callas. In pastel tones for Grace Kelly. Tailleur, created by Coco Chanel, was born, says Lagerfeld in a 2017 documentary dedicated to him, from a simple four-pocketed jacket bought by a porter in a Hotel in Salzburg where Mademoiselle stayed for a short time.

 

MOSCHINO SS 1993 / JUNIYA WATANABE FW 2008 / MOSCHINO FW 2011

The transition from work uniform to symbol of feminine emancipation uniform was very short. Chanel’s purpose was to build a uniform or a perfect machine to dress the female body, a true design object ergonomically designed to meet different needs: movement, elegance, flexibility. Made out of materials from jersey to velvet, from lace to muslin, although the one that will go down in history was tweed, to accompany the gentle sex not only in their daily tasks but also social and official commitments.

MOSCHINO FW 2014 /Adv Campaign GIVENCHY by RICCARDO TISCI FW 2016 / MARC JACOBS SS19 / GUCCI by ALESSANDRO MICHELE FW19

It remains to the day of today the dress most commonly used by women who work in offices, editorial offices, parliament, but also a timeless classic, copied and interpreted by many designers in their collections. Here we propose a florilegium of images which elect Chanel’s suit as an indispensable element in the female wardrobe. A sign of timeless elegance. Coco Chanel taught us that fashion, in its heavy frivolity, is basically creation, which can still entertain and make us dream, without giving up thinking. Long life to dreams then, because a laugh will bury us!

CELINE BY HEDI SLIMANE SS20