HUNTING SEASON FOULARDS COLLECTION MARELLA FW21

My passion for colors has always been linked to make-up collections that are renewed every season and bring to memory ancient places and rituals. Some collections capture colors and glows of silent undergrowth and give back its charm with metallic iridescences in warm tones. Theme: decadent and twilight atmosphere of the hunting season. An “Off-Color” trend that draws inspiration from the colors of autumn’s flora and fauna. An upper-class optimism of autumns spent in Tuscany dominates, while strolling along tree-lined avenues, frames of bucolic landscapes. A desirable and easy look, accessorized with hand drawn prints placed on large scarves recreates enchanted landscapes. A riot of curvilinear calligraphy, zoomorphic extensions and intricated lines like the jewels of Renè Lalique; herald of an organic hyperdecoratism that never fails to surprise and inspire.

HUNTING SEASON FOULARDS COLLECTION MARELLA FW21 Pheasants motif. Print on silk 90X90 – 120X120 CM 

HUNTING SEASON FOULARDS COLLECTION MARELLA FW21 Deer motif. Print on silk  90X90 – 120X120 CM

HUNTING SEASON FOULARDS COLLECTION MARELLA FW21 Hunting dogs motif. Print on silk 90X90 – 120X120 CM

 

ARCHIVIO LOIACONO

Nonostante le chiusure forzate dettate dalla pandemia da Covid-19, tra establishment e big players, il mainstream milanese, coté modaiolo, è vivo e vegeto. Tra le figure di spicco, la sciccosa Amelianna Loiacono. Solare e romantica, dotata di prensili antenne e di una capacità unica nel mescolare il vintage in maniera attuale e poetica da creare immagini senza tempo. Laureata in Storia dell’Arte, Amelianna è una delle stylist freelance, più creative e produttive dell’editoria italiana. Ha lavorato 21 anni in Hearst per Elle e Gioia. Dal 2020 lavora per Vanity Fair. Ha curato lo styling di molte sfilate durante Milano Collezioni e Pitti a Firenze e il look di Jovanotti per il video “Tutto l’amore che ho”. Attualmente collabora con Elie Saab, Etro, Philosophy, Alberta Ferretti. Numerose le campagne pubblicitarie realizzate negli anni per Intimissimi, Calzedonia, Swatch, Campari, Sky, Kway, Max Mara, Class Cavalli, Mario Valentino, Replay. Ha iniziato la sua carriera fotografando soprattutto attrici del calibro di Demi Moore, Laura Dern, Anna Mouglalis, Kasia Smutniak, Laura Morante, Valeria Golino, Milla Jovovich, Margherita Buy e nel 1998 è stata la costumista del film di Luca Guadagnino “The protagonists” con Tilda Swinton e Laura Betti. Il prezioso archivio privato vintage costruito in trent’anni di ricerche che usa per prestiti agli stilisti e servizi di moda, la dice lunga sul personaggio, e sulla sua lucida, ispirata visione.

Come nasce il progetto? Il progetto nasce per un’urgenza oramai improcrastinabile. Ho iniziato la mia ricerca vintage più di trent’anni fa con una costanza maniacale, ho comprato pezzi unici settimanalmente per tutti questi anni con la stessa costanza di un fervente cristiano che la domenica non rinuncia alla Messa, io difficilmente salto un mercato. Ho accumulato così tanti capi che non era più possibile per me collezionarli senza un adeguata catalogazione. Finalmente ho trovato uno spazio e ora è tutto perfettamente in ordine e organizzato. Quali gli obbiettivi? Fondamentalmente l’archivio è alla base di tutto il mio lavoro di stylist. Nei miei set commerciali uso spesso i miei accessori vintage per valorizzare una collezione e collaboro con diverse aziende di moda che trovano ispirazione nel mio archivio. La tua idea di styling? Il mio styling si basa su un’idea di bellezza senza tempo. Difficilmente vedendo un mio editoriale puoi capire quando è stato scattato. Non uso mai il look di stagione e non sono una stylist che racconta la tendenza del momento credo che questo sia la mia forza ma anche il mio limite. Quanti stilisti sono presenti nel tuo archivio? In assoluto colleziono Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche. Poi ho un po’ di tutto Versace, Moschino, Lanvin, Balenciaga. Ma soprattutto anni 70 e 80.

 

Swimsuit vintage ARCHIVIO LOIACONO @archivioloiacono Foto by ENTION SULO model MARIA KONIECZNA pubblicato su MIA LE JOURNAL.

 

Il primo abito importante che hai comprato? Il ricordo che ho legato ad un primo vestito importante risale al mio diciottesimo compleanno. Ero molto in crisi perché nonostante avessi girato tutti i negozi di Bari non trovavo un abito che mi piacesse per la mia festa. Finché a casa di una mia amica che aveva una nonna molto chic vedo questo abito di velluto nero e taffetà e me ne innamoro. La signora me lo presta e io lo faccio rifare identico dalla mia sarta di fiducia. L’abito era un Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche che ho riconosciuto molti anni dopo vedendolo in una foto pubblicitaria. Il primo che ti hanno regalato? Un vestito anni 50 di tulle azzurro da ballo. Era di mia nonna da bambina ogni volta che andavo a casa sua mi precipitavo nel suo armadio e rimanevo incantata a guardare il vestito “della Principessa“. Quando sono andata via da Bari per andare a Venezia all’Università mia nonna ha voluto che lo mettessi in valigia e lo portassi con me. Il capo d’abbigliamento a cui non puoi rinunciare. D’ inverno ad un cappotto di Max Mara. D’estate alle Espadrillias. Che ti piaceva di più quando eri adolescente. Adoravo Romeo Gigli. Mi piaceva tutto, i suoi vestiti e la sua estetica. In camera avevo appeso le foto di Paolo Roversi con la collezione ispirata ai mosaici di Ravenna. Adesso? Sempre e solo Yves Saint Laurent.

Sky Time Jumpsuit vintage ARCHIVIO LOIACONO @archivioloiacono Foto by ENTION SULO model RACHELE PIOT.

Lo stilista che preferisci più presente nel tuo archivio? Idem, Yves Saint Laurent. Quello che proprio non sopporti? Non ho nessuna antipatia in particolare ma non indosserei mai per mio gusto personale un capo di Jeremy Scott. Lo stilista più geniale? Yves Saint Laurent ma amo anche la genialità di Coco Chanel. Il capo d’abbigliamento che ti ispira scene erotiche? Una sottoveste di seta ricamata. Lo styling sempre presente nelle foto di David Hamilton. Quello con cui faresti l’amore? Reggiseno e slip anni vintage anni 70. La migliore collezione degli ultimi trent’anni? Non è la migliore collezione degli ultimi trent’anni, ma è la migliore collezione di sempre, quella ispirata ai balletti russi disegnata nel 76 da Saint Laurent. Più recentemente ho amato molto la collaborazione di Maria Grazia Chiuri e Pier Paolo Piccioli per Maison Valentino. Loro insieme erano imbattibili. Il capo d’abbigliamento che hai consumato di più? Un blazer di Costume National che ho usato a cavallo tra gli anni novanta e i primi 2000. Il capo d’abbigliamento che non hai ancora potuto acquistare? L’abito con le bocche disegnato da YSL nella famosa collezione dello scandalo del 1971. Si trova online ad una cifra esorbitante.

 

Dress YVES SAINT LAURENT RIVE GAUCHE vintage ARCHIVIO LOIACONO @archivioloiacono Foto by ENTION SULO model POLINA GROSCHEVA.

 

Senti la mancanza di stilisti che sono scomparsi o che si sono ritirati? Vabbè di YSL non parlo più altrimenti sono troppo ripetitiva. Credo che il genio creativo di Alexander McQueen manchi a tutti. Una perdita gravissima. Il profumo che utilizzi? Non ho mai indossato un profumo. Ma spruzzo nei cassetti della biancheria Un Jardin Sur Le Toit di Hermes. Un ricordo legato a un profumo? La violetta di Parma da bambina l’adoravo. Un desiderio inconfessabile? Intrufolarmi a casa di Betty Catroux e svaligiare il suo armadio. Cosa ti manca? In questo momento preciso mi mancano i mercati chiusi per Covid. E la libertà di viaggiare! Quali sono i tuoi progetti futuri? Sto lavorando ad un grosso progetto pubblicitario con la regia di Saverio Costanzo che mi terrà impegnata per il prossimo mese e poi vedremo, ormai non si programma più niente!

Vintage leather pants ARCHIVIO LOIACONO @archivioloiacono Foto by ENTION SULO model JESSICA DURANTE.

LOIACONO’S ARCHIVE – Despite forced closures dictated by Covid-19 pandemic, between establishment and big players, Milanese mainstream, fashionable coté is alive and well. Among prominent figures, swanky Amelianna Loiacono. Solar and romantic, equipped with antennas and a unique ability to mix vintage in a contemporary and poetic way to create timeless images. Graduated in Art History, Amelianna is one of the most creative and productive freelance stylists in Italian publishing. She worked 21 years at Hearst between Elle and Gioia. Since 2020 she has been working for Vanity Fair. She overlooked the styling of many fashion shows during Milano Collezioni and Pitti Florence as well as Jovanotti’s look for the video “All the love I have”. She currently collaborates with Elie Saab, Etro, Philosophy, Alberta Ferretti. Numerous the advertising campaigns created: Intimissimi, Calzedonia, Swatch, Campari, Sky, Kway, Max Mara, Class Cavalli, Mario Valentino, Replay. She began her career photographing mainly actresses of the caliber of Demi Moore, Laura Dern, Anna Mouglalis, Kasia Smutniak, Laura Morante, Valeria Golino, Milla Jovovich, Margherita Buy and in 1998 she was costume designer of Luca Guadagnino’s film “The protagonists” with Tilda Swinton and Laura Betti. The precious private vintage archive (70s and 80s) built over thirty years of research that she often loans to designers, stylists and fashion shoots, speaks clearly about the character, her open and inspired vision. How was the project born? It was born out of an urgency that could not be postponed. I started out my vintage reasearch more then thirty years ago with an obsessive constancy. I bought unique pieces every week for all these years. With the same constancy as a fervent christian that never miss out on his sunday Mass, I hardly miss a market. I have accumulated so many pieces that it was no longer possible to collect them without proper catalogisation.I finally found a space and now everything is perfectly tidy and organized. Whic are your goals? Basically the archive is the at the basis of my whole work as a stylist. On my commercial sets, I often use my own vintage accessories to enhance a collection and I collaborate with many different fashion houses which find inspiration in my archive. Your idea of styling? My styling is based on an idea of timeless beauty. You can hardly tell, when you see an editorial of mine, when it was shot. I never use seasonal looks and I am not a stylist who tells the trend of the moment; I believe this is my strenght but also my limit.How many designers are there in your archive? I collect mostly Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche. Then a little bit of everything; Versace, Moschino, Lanvin, Balenciaga. But mostly from the 70s and the 80s. The first important dress you bought? My memory goes back to my 18th birthday. I was very upset because despite having visited all shops in Bari, I could not find a good dress for my party. Until, at a friend’s house, who had a very chic grandmother,  I saw this amazing black velvet and taffeta dress and fell in love with it. The lady lent it to me so I could have it done the same exact way by my trusted seamstress. The dress was an Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche which I recognized many years later by seeing it in an advertising photo. The first you were given as a present? A 50’s ball gown in blue tulle which belonged to my grandmother when she was a child. Every time I went to her house, I used to go to her wardrobe and was enchanted by this Princess dress. When I left Bari to go to University, in Venice, she asked me to put it in my suitcase and bring it with me. The item of clothing you cannot live without. In winter time a Max Mara Coat. During summer Espadrillias. Who were you most fond of when you were a teenager? I loved Rome gigli. I liked everything of his, his dresses, his aesthetic. In my bedroom I had hung Paolo Roversi’s photos with the collection inspired by the Mosaics of Ravenna. And now? Always and only Yves Saint Laurent. Which designer do you prefer the most in your archive? Again, Yves Saint Laurent. The one you cannot stand? I do not have any particular dislike but for my personal taste, I would never wear a Jeremy Scott garment. The most brilliant designer? Yves Saint Laurent of course, but I also love the genius of Coco Chanel. The item of clothing which inspires you with erotic scenes? An embroidered silk pettycoat. The styiling always present in David Hamilton’s photos. The one you would make love with? 70’s vintage bra and briefs. The best collection of the last 30 years? It is not the best in the last 30 years but the best collection ever, the one inspired by Russian Ballets, designed by Saint Laurent in 1976. Most recently I very much loved the collaboration of Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli for Maison Valentino. Them together are unbeatable. The item of clothing that you have used the most? A costume national blazer which I have used between the 1990s and early 2000. The one you have yet not been able to buy? The one with mouths designed by YSL in the famous scandal collection of 1971. Its available on line and its very, very expensive. Do you miss those designers who passed away or resigned? I wont talk about YSL in order not to repeat myself. I believe everyone misses the creative genius of Alexander McQueen. A tremendous loss. Which fragrance do you use? I have never worne one. But I spray Un Jardin Sur Le Toit by Hermes into my linen drawers. A memory liked to a fragrance? Violetta di Parma: I loved it when I was a child. An inconcevable desire? To enter furtivement into Betty Catroux’s house and rob everything I can possibly find in her wardrobe. What do you miss?  In this particular moment I miss markets, closed due to Covid and the freedom to travel. Which are your future projects? I am working on a big advertising one under the direction of Saverio Costanzo which will keep me busy for next month and then we will see, nowadays we cannot plan anything really!

 

SOUVENIR D’ITALIE

There are places in our beautiful country where perfection still exists. Just look at them tightly through the angles of these well photgraphed Italian squares. Open-air museums where classic solutions alternate to Gothic, Romanesque or Baroque ones modern to Classicism, Neo-Gothic to Baroque. Metissage of decorations from the places of the heart simply crossed or because they are custodians of memories. An all-Italian souvenir.

SOUVENIR D’ITALIE – design made for foulard – Florence Piazza Santo Spirito

SOUVENIR D’ITALIE – design made for foulard – Giuncarico Piazza del Popolo

SOUVENIR D’ITALIE – design made for foulard – Rome Piazza di Spagna

SOUVENIR D’ITALIE – design made for foulard – Pisa Piazza dei Miracoli

SOUVENIR D’ITALIE – design made for foulard – Venice Ponte di Rialto

SOUVENIR D’ITALIE – design made for foulard – Milan Piazza del Carmine

 

THE BEAT GOES ON

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Creative Direction ALESSIONESI

Photography SIMON

Make-Up Artist GIORGIAPAMBIANCHI

Model CAROLEVITETTA @URBNMODELS

Management Assistant ANNALISAPARISI

Decorativism to the limit, in a metropolitan version,in between tradition and experimentation,on new FW 20 Scarves IRIS-1981 collection by MARELLA ‘s print designed by ALESSIONESI. Prints punctuated by a degradé rhythm. Vibrant surfaces with graphics of drawed fabrics, borrowed from men’s tailoring tradition: pied-de-poule, prince of wales, vichy squared, tweed. Overlapped on textures made of barbed wires, chains, precious textures built with jewels set together. Saturated color palette. Light and sophisticated constructions wink at the excesses of the 80s. They open a new season of wealth, adverse to half measures. They are a frivolous but therapeutic escape that compensates for the discontent of this particular historical moment. They bring back rhythm and magic.

IRIS-1981 Foulards Collection by ALESSIONESI per MARELLA FW20

IRIS-1981 Foulards Collection by ALESSIONESI per MARELLA FW20

IRIS-1981 Foulards Collection by ALESSIONESI per MARELLA FW20

IRIS-1981 Foulards Collection by ALESSIONESI per MARELLA FW20

IRIS-1981 Foulards Collection by ALESSIONESI per MARELLA FW20

IRIS-1981 Foulards Collection by ALESSIONESI per MARELLA FW20

IRIS-1981 Foulards Collection by ALESSIONESI per MARELLA FW20

IRIS-1981 Foulards Collection by ALESSIONESI per MARELLA FW20

 

LE DEJEUNER EN FOURRURE

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Creative Direction and prints ALESSIONESI

Photography SIMON 

Model CAROLEVITETTA @URBNMODELS

Nude Blouse, Desire Claim Fame, L’Obscur Eve Black, may seem like titles taken from a surrealistic film playlist, instead they are names of products taken from Spring-Summer 2020 make-up collections. Color mood: a wide palette with exuberant and irreverent colors, between which pink, this season’s color , which has always been a desire for light-heartedness messenger. Lipsticks, nail polishes, blushes, eye-shadows, declined in the most pale and romantic tones, up to the most intrusive fuchsia, with a rock soul, passing through salmon tones, until it disappears in the incendiary shades of red which extinguishes itself in rouge noir. For a bright and sexier face. Summer make-up chooses the impact of minimum terms and avant-garde paths to recompose as it was a collage, the high rate of contemporary femininity.

Couture Blush 5 Nude Blouse – Eau De Parfum LIBRE by YSL

Le Phyto Gloss 10 Star SISLEY PARIS – Phyto-Poudre Compacte Cocoa Cupuaçu Mango – Phyto Hydra Teint Beautifying tinted moisturizer 2 Medium SPF 15 SISLEY PARIS

Resilience Multi-Effect Tri-Peptide Face and Neck Creme SPF15 – Lipstick Desire 213 Claim Fame Matte ESTEE LAUDER

Eau de Parfum Tuscan Leather Intense – Lip Color Rouge a Levres Black Orchid  TOM FORD

Poudre DE Beauté Mat Naturel – Rouge À Lèvres Voile Eadie Scarlet 502 – Mascara L’Obscur EVE BLACK 1 GUCCI

O! Mega Shadow Moment-O! 590Enamored Dazzling Gloss Lip Lacquer 380 Tempt Me MARC JACOBS

 

GOOD THINGS OF BAD TASTE

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Photography SIMON Realization ALESSIONESI

A postcard of a distant journey, the starched lace doily, framed flowers, the ancient and renowned pastry shop, the kitch porcelain figurine from the fifties, the pile of dusty books:”Good things of bad taste” as Guido Gozzano writes in I Colloqui, 1911. Objects and rituals crushed by the weight of their daily lives which assimilate the totality of living and then explode again in your chest; passepartout of our contemporaneity to tell the olfactory harmonies of new season. Sillage with familiar scents. Floral bouquets capable of flying far away. They are not just a journey into nature, but an introspective research in the most remote and melancholy ego immersed in a twilight atmosphere. Playing with the symbols of fashion, time, the little things that surround us every day, even a fragrance, in its individual season, can be queen of transitory and aware of its eternity.

Edp Good Girl Suprême CAROLINA HERRERA

Absolu De Parfum Nomande by CHLOÉ

Yuja Cologne JO MALONE LONDON

Edp Gorgeous Gardenia Flora GUCCI

Edp Twist MIU MIU

Edp Collection Extraordinaire Néroli Amara N01783MG VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

 Edp A Girl In Capri LANVIN

 

BEAUTY NO GENDER

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Creative Direction ALESSIONESI

Photography SIMON

Model GIACOMOCALDANA @URBNMODELS

Management Assistant ANNALISAPARISI

New treatments emancipate from the cult of appearance. Cosmetics, a sector that has always marked the gender aspect, redraws boundaries by widening the offer and by outlining the space in which people can identify the new codes of gender movement. Non-gender products incorporate an original tension towards provocation, cleverly controlled through choices which respect the environment, conceived specifically for the digital age; they are treatments with formulas enriched with cutting-edge active ingredients enclosed in a neutral design and are addressed to those who do not like to stay long in front of the mirror. Light fragrances and pleasantly soft, ultra-smooth textures which create a bright complexion with a simple touch.

Phyto Hydra Teint SPF15 SILSEY PARIS

Crema Corpo Anti-Age DR. BARBARA STURM

Crema da barba “DOERS OF LONDON SHAVE CREAM”

Detergente THE CLEANSING FOAM LA MER

Pure Shots Hydra Bounce Essence-In-Lotion YSLBeauty

Body Spray “BEAU DE JOUR” TOM FORD

 

QUANDO FUORI C’È IL SOLE

Fashion shooting  per leggere il testo in italiano apri il link di VIRALWAVE.IT

Creative Direction ALESSIONESI

Photography SIMON

Model GIACOMO CALDANA @URBNMODELS

Management Assistant ANNALISA PARISI

From beauty to fashion. Skin care formulas and neutral design silhouettes define aesthetic of the new decade.

The “No-gender” as professionals call it, is a way to communicate to a male and female audience with products that leverage general aspirations, bypassing gender differences. Beauty has decided not to deprive itself of this trend that leverages new relationships established between couples and not even fashion, that shows androgynous and casual collections with light bodies. It is a new lifestyle. Boundaries are blurred. There is masculinity in women and vice versa. It is a form of disguise that affects all fields from fashion to beauty to design. A more playful approach is established with one’s identity: it is current society that requires flexibility, at work, in daily occupations, in relationships with others. The traditional models of eternal male and female do not disappear completely but the expression of identity becomes freer and more open. A new balance is established, in which each sex borrows from the other what finds good and useful. The evolution of current aestheticism is called beauty sharing; shared agreements, from cosmetics to fashion collections. Women use male moisturizers as well as men wear female clothes. He and She sublimate themselves in a two-way neutral identity that acquire a rediscovered rituality in the present moment, for new and old generations. Style of the new decade has been served.

Reggicalze da uomo + calze nere filo di Scozia PIERRE CARDIN  Slip INTIMISSIMI

Sospensorio CALVIN KLEIN

Slip RAGNO Bretelle EMPORIO ARMANI

Slip + calze CALVIN KLEIN

Slip SLOGGI

Collant CALZEDONIA Slip INTIMISSIMI

Slip PEROFIL Maglione CAROL CHRISTIAN POELL FW1997 (Private Collection)

Slip + T-shirt  N21

Slip e guêpière INTIMISSIMI

Cappellino da baseball N21slip JULIPET

Slip MOSCHINO Anfibi N21 + calze nere filo di Scozia GALLO

Slip MANIERE ITALIANE

 

DOMESTIC SAFARI

First fashion shooting for VIRALWAVE.IT

Creative Direction ALESSIONESI

Photography SIMON

Make-Up & Hair Style GIOVANNI IOVINE @WMMANAGEMENT

Model OPHELIA KUMBE @MAJORMODELSMILAN

Management Assistant ANNALISA PARISI

Total Look ALBERTA FERRETTI SS 20 Make-Up: Foundation and Powder MAC STUDIO, Eyel Pencil, Fluid Sheer N10, Lipstick Rouge all ARMANI BEAUTY

Foulard MARELLA by ALESSIONESI Wunderkammer Collection SS20 Bracelet ELENA ZANELLATO Skin: BIODERMAITALIA Solution Micellar, AVEDA ITALIABotanical Kinetics, Eau de Beautè and Pureness Matyfyng CAUDALIE.

Total Look MAX MARA SS20

Total Look PHYLOSOPHY by LORENZO SERAFINI SS20

Sandal by PHYLOSOPHY by LORENZO SERAFINI SS20

Kaftano by LUCIO VANOTTI SS20 Neckless ILENIA CORTI VERNISSAGE

Hat TOPSHOP + Foulard Foulard MARELLA by ALESSIONESI Wunderkammer Collection SS20

 

COLOR GAMES

Text and illustrations  ALESSIONESI

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Go beyond. Smile. Be positive. Cosmetic houses are reinventing a healthy ideal of beauty through the secret power of colors in their new summer make-up collections, made irresistible by the intense flashes of twilight, by the paradisiacal landscapes of the desert and tropical forests. From the love of nature, unexpected games of colors are born, nuances with opaque and shiny textures. Like the memory of a dream.

Summer Look SS20 Eye Color Quad 26 Leopard Sun TOM FORD SS20

Summer Look SS20 Rouge Allure 607 Camélia Rouge Métal CHANEL

Summer Look SS20 Mineral Nude Bronze Light 001 DIOR

Eau de Parfum L’Interdit by GIVENCHY

Summer Look SS20 Rouge Pure Couture The Slim N°21 YSL

Summer Look SS20: Phyto Rouge N°31 Orange Acapulco, Phyto-Blush Twist N°1 Petal, So Intense Eyeliner, SISLEY PARIS