FARMACIA SS. ANNUNZIATA

Special attention deserves Farmacia SS. Annunziata probably born around 1400 a little gem in the heart of the historical center of Florence, noted in assets in 1561. It was formerly the ancient apothecary of the Servants of Mary Convent, adjacent to the church of SS. Annunziata.

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His first manager was the chemist Dominic Vincent Brunetti. Since 1921 belongs to one family that own the company Ker Inc. Currently consisting of two pharmacists and cosmetologists and two business executives. The company manufactures and sells cosmetics line Farmacia SS.

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Annunziata since 1561 Florence Italy. The decor has remained unchanged over time: the sales room has three large shelves of dark wood posts on the walls, surmounted by carvings, leaves and golden masks lighten the austere lines of eighteenth century taste.

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Still boasts a particular tradition in the formulation of natural products for the hygiene and the aesthetic of the skin, created under the new safety rules and still keeping intact the traditional methods of craftsmanship typical of the old pharmacy.

Alessio Nesi

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ESSENCE FATALE

In collaboration with Fashion Trend Issue n°28 June 2010.

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During these times of recession many people seek refuge in spirituality, in substitutes of well-being, using mascots as support. The independent labels which have always created haute de gamme fragrances took their inspiration from the years when perfume was considered as a talisman, a connection with the divine. Have a look in the Masterpieces section of the Cosmoprof in Bologna, Fragrances of Pitti Immagine in Florence, Esxence and White Beauty in Milan. Light and provocative, they provide discerning points of reflection which lead to the boundaries of reality. Unique.

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Made with natural raw materials that are very expensive, dense and hard to find, the essences are like magic potions, warm and cold, generous and perfidious, perfect and incomplete, for eccentric dandies and restless femme fatales: disciples seduced by the image of contemporary society, reborn from their fall. The elegant sculptural bottles are contemporary talismans which contain the alchemy of special aromas.

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They draw inspiration from the secret doctrines of esotericism; they are capable of revealing the mysteries of the Universe and the Absolute. They allow you to communicate with the divine world, in the search for a new route to find the ancient road that leads there where man coincides with God, protecting all his aesthetic and moral integrity in an ongoing struggle between soul and body.

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OLFACTORY EVOLUTIONS

In collaboration with bmm Issue N° 32 June 2010

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High craftsmanship. Creative innovation. A hidden segment, born with the latest editions of Esxence the Masterpieces section of Cosmoprof Bologna, Fragrances of Pitti Immagine in Florence and White Beauty, it has not escaped to the more “commercial” perfumery where creator’s noses and managers of essence’s houses essences have been inspired by the traditional niche haut de gamme of fragrance, almost unknown to the public. The editors of perfumes, rediscover this way particular flavorings, rare unpublished notes for olfactory agreements made with completely natural materials,very expensive and difficult to find. Fragrances of the new generation become as light as eau. They seduce and give more satisfaction than jewelry. Or then sculptures.They are like a silent music contained within crystal universes.

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Prada. The Ephemeral Infusions collection by Prada, launched in 2009, realized with artisanal processes, widens its range with a new feminine fragrance in limited edition: Infusion de Tuebereuse. Light as a typical Italian Eau De Cologne, is a concentrate of fresh and citrus notes from the Mediterranean sea. Like all packages from the collection, this is decorated with a mosaic print of Tuberoses from a print taken from the Prada textile archive.

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Balenciaga. Nicolas Ghesquiere, Balenciaga‘s creative director, has never made a misstep: Nicolas Ghesquiere, Balenciaga’s Creative Director, has never made a misstep: his collections have always been done with masterful skill, therefore there were high expectations for the new perfume the first since the 1955 Quadrille. A fragile and rigorous Violet, mysterious and introspective, classical and graceful, subtly dominates the fragrance. Supported by an amber background is like a blast of light spring breeze. Raises ancient charm, awakens the memory of departed loves. Its jus floral, similar to undergrowth’s nectar, evolves in spicy and sensual touches and is kept in a bottle-sculpture with the shape of a bell made of blown glass. The gentle presence of Charlotte Gainsbourg, friend and muse of the designer, interprets faithfully the fragrance in the advertising campaign shot by Steven Meisel.

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Untitled. It is the name of the first perfume Maison Martin Margiela and expresses individual freedom: “Without any reference to a specific image or a specific environment, it can be interpreted freely and be adapted to each of us“. Created from the nose of Daniela Andrier, the essence is “monolithic“: the Galbanum, raw material, noble and rare is present in every note of this green floral woody essence, incisive, embraces the Bitter Green Bosso, Mastic, Incense, Bitter Orange. It carries within itself an olfactory classic vocabulary nowadays forgotten.

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Opium. Trasgressive is the name, with an opulent and intoxicating charm. Capable to revoke the empire of the senses. Ode to the lysergic murky mist narrated by William Somerset Maugham. Yves Saint Laurent’s Opium makes a come back with its original olfactory pyramid, the scandalous perfume launched in 1977, times of rebellion and terror, which name was banned in the Middle East and for years also banned in an Australian region. Inspired by the Chinese courts’ splendours, it’s a bestseller of the world’s perfumery. The new bottle, designed by Stefano Pilati, the creative mind behind YSL fashion brand, remind the Intro, the warriors tools case with a transparent porthole that lights the essence up and invites you to get lost in the oblivion.

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John Galliano. The scents are olfactory harmonies that capture the joy of living, just as the first Eau de Toilette by Jhon Galliano, dedicates to the playful and innocent spirit of his female creature. The nose, Christine Nagel, has created elegant essence with delicate powdery and woody notes. Romantic ode to decadence, to the salons of D’Annunzio: the silhouette of the bottle recalls the aristocratic figure of the Marquise Casati painted by Giovanni Boldini, who inspired the young couturier. Created with pure pathos, nurtured, venerated and understood  there where others do not seek it. Go sniff it!

Alessio Nesi

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COSMETOLOGY: FASCINO EFEBICO.

In collaboration with BMM Issue 32 June 2010

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The new millennium man has the charm of Ganymede. The cosmetics industry dedicates to the “Royal Child” aesthetic strategies for the care and preservation of the image, through ostentatious youth with the intention of preserving all its aesthetic and moral integrity in a constant struggle between soul and body. This target does not deal with homogenised images which erase ethnic or registries differences, the only concern is to reduce the image to an enlightened entity, more spiritual, in a transparent and legendary narrative object. An exposed, overexposed, perfect and groomed body. Also in Cosmetology, products transmit the symptoms related to the preservation of the image of a young and spiritual silhouette. Through medical expertise, the cosmeceuticals, are the “way of life” of the European market. Dermo-line, professional and hi-tech, known for their scientific and medical approach: slim up the figure, smooth, fill, eliminate brown spots, give brightness to complexion and so on… all thanks to new formulas with vegetable protein extracts. Fast to use, high performance.

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Max LS Age-Less Face Cream. The new anti-aging Lab Series draws inspiration from the technology of sirtuins, “longevity genes” epidermal cells developed with high-tech methods. Its complex works as an excellent preventive anti-aging  and brings exceptional benefits to the natural healing process with an immediate improvement of male skin.

Skin Therapy. Anti-Aging Oxygen Moisturizing gel-cream  is an ingenious oxygenating treatment, created by Lancaster, necessary to counteract first signs of aging.  Its formula is composed of a patented delivery 02 system together with a cocktail of anti-oxidants that give the skin more firmness and elasticity. Suitable for all skin types.

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Even Better Clinical. The most important factor that makes the skin look youthful is in having a uniform color. The new botanical complex by Clinique reduces dark patches/spots on the skin and gives a prefectly even tone and an immaculate face. Even Better Clinical Dark Spot Corrector, evens the complexion and “delete” as a rubber those marks left by hyperpigmentation. A powerful antioxidant extract, Dianella Ensifolia, contained in the formula, reduces dark spots, promote exfoliation to accelerate cell turnover. For a radiant and spiritual face.

Corrective Eye Contour Gel. Prevents dark circles, reduces signs of fatigue. It is not a normal eye cream gel. Corrective Eye Contour Gel by Diego Dalla Palma, hydrates, improves microcirculation, counteracts the local accumulation of fats, preventing the return of eye bags. Born from pharmaceutical research on viper venom, has the ability to reduce wrinkles.

Anti-Aging Anti-Wrinkle Eye Line Filler. The very last product from La Prairie carries a great promise:an effect comparable to injectable fillers. It’s called Anti-Aging Anti-Wrinkle Eye Line Filler, an eye contour cream with a lifting and filling action, immediate and long term. Its effective formula contains a plant extract derived from Guggul, an Indian tree, increases the volume of tissues increasing the level of hydration in the most dehydrated areas of the skin.

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Génific HD. The first daily men’s rejuvenating treatment protects from shaving damages and contains the patented “Genefique” complex. Born from protenemic researches is a system of cellular repair through the release of proteins. Its light and fresh texture reduces redness and stimulates the production of proteins responsible for the quality of skin barrier.

ABDOS plus+ For Men. This impact cosmetic treatment from Sephora for the “sport lazy”, redefines the abdominal area with no efforts. Tightens the abdominal muscles, burns excess fat through a formula rich in natural active ingredients which have a vasoconstrictor effect which lifts the skin. Reshape your body without the use of cosmetic surgery!

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Soin Fermeté Age Control. Reassuring and easy to use is the new treatment Dior Homme Dermo System. Soin FermetéAge control. Suitable for very young skin helps to monitor the  shiny areas of the face, reducing excess sebum. Four weeks after this treatment, skin looks matt and uniform.

Alessio Nesi

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OFFICINA PROFUMO FARMACEUTICA SANTA MARIA NOVELLA

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The old pharmacies were fascinating institutions, once the site of experimental but not theoretical theories involving many aspects of human knowledge from botany to alchemy and focus for all artistic activities often little known among the general public. My interest in this research wish, albeit in rapid synthesis, talk about the history of Officina Profumo Pharmacy of Santa Maria Novella in Florence, a remarkable and complex monumental, diamond point of the 136 pharmacies surveyed in the history of Tuscany, because is the only convent pharmacy in Florence which keeps its original image and trade mark of excellence of the artisanal parfumery haute de gamme with 23 stores scattered worldwide. The pharmacy is accessed from via della Scala 16, near Square S. Maria Novella, as soon as we cross the threshold we are hit by an intense perfume and by a warm silence which accompanies us till the neo-gothic hall Sale which surprises for its sacred solemnity.

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Hall Sale

Dates back to 1848, has extraordinary frescoes framed in stucco which embellish the Nouveau furniture, bottles from the nineteenth century, ceramics, wooden sculptures, stills of the past. Adjacent to the Hall Green, or room overlooking the garden, was once the room reception for important guests: Inspectors of the art of Physicians, Apothecaries. Directoire style retains the original furnishing: sofas and white lacquered chairs upholstered in green floss. In 2012 the laboratory will celebrate four centuries of soap parfumes and teas production  but the testimonies of the existence of the laboratory comes from the time of Dante: it was founded in 1221, during the arrival of the Dominicans Friars in the city. It was officially opened to the public in 1612 at the suggestion of the Grand Duke of Tuscany.

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Hall Green

Among the galenic formulas patented by chemist-friars: Water Queen, which Catherine de Medici took to the throne of France and which was produced by 1725 in Cologne by the name of Acqua di Colonia; the Water Antisterica which has sedative properties, the famous liquor, among which i remember the  Alkermes, appointed by the Region Tuscany traditional product, which has a pungent and spicy taste and which is still produced according to the ancient recipe of Fra Cosimo Buccelli in 1743; the magic of Potpourri, the result of maturation of flowers and herbs from the Florentine hills, the Fragrances which evoke smells of imaginative journeys like Iris, Rose, Gardenia, Verbena, Vetiver, Hay, have won credibility among prominent figures of the showbiz and the international star system, among them: Hillary Clinton, Catherine Deneuve, Catherine Zeta-Jones, Monica Bellucci, Monica Vitti, Albertazzi, Benigni, Elizabeth. The current director Eugenio Alphandery, CEO since 1992 and co-owner, along with the last descendants of the lay property of the convent, Diana and Fiammetta Stefani, promotes through cultural events the origin of the laboratory in the world, enlighting its wealth.

Alessio Nesi

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