Prada celebrates 10 years since the opening of its first Epicenter, on Broadway in New York. Designed by Studio OMA owned by Rem Koolhaas, it has made quite big news for its innovations: the step structure, the transparent, darkened dressing room and the great north wall, 60 meters long. Conceived as a decorative element to change each season, with wallpapers created ad hoc by the New York firm 2×4. Ten years of visions, taken from films, theatrical sets, posters, music cover. Daily and lysergic images: the first, Vomit from 2001, is now part of MOMA‘s collection, while 2007 Skull, bears the signature of the artist Damien Hirst. Wallpapers for museums, seen as an element of temporality. Emblems of Capitalism, Grandeur and Contemporary Classicism.
VOMIT 2001 – Detail – Large floral pattern consisting of fragments of images from trivial to semi-pornographic.
SKULL 2007 – Detail – Wallpaper designed by Damien Kirst- skulls from the album cover of the band The Hours, designed by the artist. Visible only from August to September.
FLORID 2007 – Detail – A landscape dotted with dragons and cruel water lilies inspired by the surreal world of Bosch and Beardsley.
NO RELIEF 2009 – Detail – Its pattern takes inspiration from low relief classics. The third dimension is achieved by applying raw stucco to walls.
ENFILADE 2010 – Detail – The pattern creates a series of adjoining rooms, ambiguous spaces that suggest a sense of “temporal-space” disorientation, typical of the evocative vision of director Alain Resneis.
CARYATIDES 2011 – Detail – The Three Caballeros, Carmen Miranda’s theatrical sets and Art Deco posters from Josephine Baker’s movies, are main sources of inspiration of women’s collection SS 2011. Wallpaper is therefore full of spiral, caryatids images on a background of Baroque landscapes.
Illustration and text by ALESSIO NESI
Image-freak entrusted to sense. Suspended in a solicitation. Aimed at capturing a content, to define a subject to narrate a collection of fragrances’ breath, powerful in its kind. Boadicea the Victorius is the name that pays homage to the British warrior Queen and also the olfactory creation of Michael Boadi, international hair stylist who for twenty long years, has collaborated with major fashion houses (including Gucci, Missoni, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Chanel) and has styled jet-setters hair such as the those of Kate Moss, Giselle, Jennifer Lopez and Madonna to name a few. The high quality of natural essences that make up the olfactory harmonies of his collection, launched in 2009 in Harrods, the prestigious London store, are contained in a unique pewter decanter inlaid with Celtic décor, which have earned him the New Design Award from Wallpaper Magazine.
Eau de Parfum Regal BOADICEA THE VICTORIUS Luxury Perfume Collection
Proprietexclusive devotes a special illustration to Regal, the latest fragrance of the English maison. The fruity top notes combined with flower and animal ones, leave room for a soft heart of Indian rose and in the heart notes a bit of Moroccan Jasmine. While the amber base notes, persistent and dark, Patchouli from Paraguay, transport us to an enchanted garden infested of oracles and threatening flowery presence. A dark-fantasy mood for a new, unique and ancestral fragrance.
“Class is the owner of beauty, fortified by the use of beauty, come to the borders of supreme beauty, where beauty is only beauty,” writes Pier Paolo Pasolini. For the Italian poet, beauty is the banner of ruling class which through its power dictates stylistic style and period’s taste. Adoption of fashion was an exclusivity of courts and aristocratic hierarchies; only in the eighteenth century, the growing rise of Bourgeoisie, impose its own culture and fashion that matches its own ideals and lifestyle through the choice of structures, forms, color and proportion. Contemporary idea of beauty has now become certified, it has a hypothesis not very flattering: we desire and we honor certain things simply because they indicate social prestige.
So, clothes from any collection of Chistian Dior, would be described as beautiful because of their social role, such as architectures and works of art. Beauty according to Pasolini would be dealing only with the position within social hierarchy.
CHRISTIAN DIOR House models wearing the Spring Summer 1957. Photograph CECIL BEATON.
For instance, if we look at the Bridal Chamber in the Palazzo Ducale di Mantova, decorated with frescoes by Mantegna, Gonzaga family’s official artist, we understand that is designed to communicate the power of the Gonzaga family. To scare off potential rivals and encourage loyalty of subordinates. The family’s power derives from its wealth, from their alliances and military resources. Artworks are veiled statements of power. However I think that beauty is not always used to overpower others: we can always give social prestige on the basis of much more pleasant qualities.
The Bridal Chamber in the Palazzo Ducale di Mantova, decorated with frescoes by MANTEGNA.
Still-life ALEBRTO PELLEGRINET Realization ALESSIO NESI
From most man’s Spring/Summer 2012 shows, a metropolitan makeup emerges, light and natural. Nude-look for troubled adolescents, dapper dandy, nice rockabilly, sporty gentleman. Easily reproducible at home. Key products: tinted moisturizing, brightening serum, revitalizing water, body lotion. Tinted moisturizer is a camouflage foundation “no texture“.
Spring / Summer 2012 from left: ROBERTO CAVALLI, NEIL BARRETT, VIVIENNE WESTWOOD, COSTUME NATIONAL.
It nourishes skin, giving a very light natural-matte color. It evens out skin tone and gently warms the complexion making it look sun-kissed. The brightening and transparent natural finish hides most imperfections. Body lotions with green actives, rekindle cell turnover that regulates brightness. Skin looks toned and radiant. The trick is there but we dont see it. Light, high quality formulas combined to manly fragrances in order to amplify results for a “rose water based” male grooming!
Clockwise: Lip Conditioner SPF 15. Studio Moisture Tint SPF 15. Fix Fixante Mist. All M. A. C. Cosmetics. Eau de Toilette L’Homme Libre YVES SAINT LAURENT. Face and Body Foundation. Enlumieur highlighter. Select Cover-up. All M. A. C. COSMETICS. Body Lotion Green BYREDO PARFUMS.
Eugene Delacroix (1798-1863) was the greatest nineteenth-century french romantic painter. In his career he painted a few portraits but one of his finest is the one of his friend Louis-Auguste Schwiter, a fellow painter, famous in the history of art only as the subject of this work. Dressed up for a formal dinner reception is portrayed in a garden. Very often when we try to say why we find something beautiful, we talk about the relationship between its parts. In this case the garden, the setting which means nature, express a state of mind, a mood. Introversion, isolation. An intimate and secluded feeling. At first glance, man does not give the impression of ostentatious security, but he seems clumsy.
The portrait of Louis-Auguste Schwiter 1826-1827 EUGENE DELACROIX
Delacroix’s painting is a message addressed to the observer; he introduces us to his friend, and seems to tell us how under the light of his choice he seems funny and charming. After all, when we happen to introduce a friend to other people, we wish to convey the basis our appreciation: if you see my friend as I see him, you will like him too. One of the tragedies of life is that often we are not able to perform this act of communication.