A strong desire for concreteness meanders in the air. In all fields. Including make-up. Some new make up collections, without sacrificing stage effects and precious formulas, adjust and focus especially on skin. Spring 2013 make up collections by Chanel and Estée Lauder, capture colors and glow of dusk handing back its magic and fairy charm with bright irridescenzes with warm tones. Theme of the season: innocence.
Make-up Collection Printemps 2013 CHANEL
Everything will be like a fairy tale with a classic storyline on which colors can alternate. The philosophy is “make-up in make-up“, without wanting to flaunt excesses but instead prefer love for aesthetic harmony. This season make-up will be clear, soft, impalpable. Technically sophisticated.
Collection Pretty Naughty ESTÉE LAUDER
And above all, credible. Illuminating serums, powders, treating foundations. All reinforced by the harmonious contrast of silver, in its matt or metallic tones, the pinks, peaches, blues, greens, browns and greige, are monochrome veils of color, shading eyes and lips. The effect on skin is of a discrete sophistication, at the same time also shiny. It is the look of the “belle dame sans merci“. A timeless cliché female which wants the woman, bold and childish, aware of manipulating the codes of artifice, with apparent innocence.
On January 20th in Paris, Saint Laurent fashion show, designed by the come back of Hedi Slimane has marked the closing of men’s fashion shows for Fall-Winter 2013. Selecting an inventory of images from Milan and Paris fashion shows, the dominant themes which I thought was most obvious, were consistency and concreteness, which means need to remain faithful to aesthetic ideas in spite of multiplication. The urgent need to evolve urgently seen as therapy in order to react to a climate of tension, has created a bigger aesthetic fragmentation and chaos in the tumult of proposals.
From above: BALENCIAGA, BALMAIN, BURBERRY PRORSUM, COSTUME NATIONAL, GIVENCHY, LANVIN, NEIL BARRETT, SAINT LAURENT by Hedi Slimane, YOHJI YAMAMOTO.
With full objectivity, the selected inventory of images, masterfully summarize the distinguishing marks of a group of constructivist designers, tied to a way of being, rather than a fashionable fase, shared by a thin file rouge, fed by the taste for a certain adversity. The expression is romantic. The silhouette is edgy. The attitude is rock-chic. Volumes are relaxed. Color palettes prefer neutral colors: black, gray, blue, beige. There is no aesthetic revolution taking place, but instead the deliberate intention to preserve a modern style, with a repertoire of possibilities within which everyone can find their own path. The only aesthetic establishment possible in a climate definitely not very cheerful…
In collaboration with Elle.it
The new cosmetic recipe for the future involves natural products that respect the environment and the elimination of most preservatives used in cosmetic products: silicon, artificial dyes and parabens. Renamed Organic Revolution it combines products of biological origin with medical expertise and high-tech design. Natural cosmetics sold only in pharmacies, for face, body and hair with tight budgets and effective formulas for demanding consumers. It is a concrete example Phyto, avant-gard French brand, born in 1967, leader in hair products of biological origin. Its products contain not less than 90% of natural and vegetable actives, with ingredients that go through a rigorous selection, coming from their own growing plants with more than 500 plant extracts and which promote the biodiversity of their products.
Secret de Nuit PHYTO
Secret de Nuit is the first night moisturizer perfect for all hair types. The formula, rich in phyto-active substances is, composed of essential fatty acids and ceramides, for a regenerating effect; black orchid and grape polyphenols, for an antioxidant and protective action. Its texture, incaspsulated in cronosferes, provides a gradual release during night-time. It doesnt stain nor grease. The desire required by the most demanding consumers for their body care is the same as always, perfection with a capital P and the world of cosmetic seems to have got the message.
With its neon shade, lively and noisy, shocking pink, never ceases to fascinate artists and designers who like to contextualize and decline it in infinite nuances, until it becomes homogeneous background, a key material for clothing, photographs, prints and fragrances. In the chromatic scale it is positioned exactly between Pink and Magenta. Cryptic, it catalyzes, enchants and hypnotizes in Australian Steve Back‘s photographs; pop, in Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama‘s work.
Photography STEVE BACK
The return of shocking pink is therapeutic if lived as the only escape from the oppressive and gray reality. It looks timid on some clothes, prints and accessories and it immediately becomes a messenger of gorgeous joy in most spring 2013 collections like the ones from Gucci, Christian Dior, Chanel, Blumarine, Burbery Porsum, Moschino, Versace, Versus, Uniqueness by Alessandra Facchinetti, Frankie Morello, Jean Paul Gaultier, Elie Saab, Miu Miu, Alviero Martini 1st Class, Byblos, Normaluisa, in some accessories from the collection of Prada, in Costume National inlays and Etro’s prints.
Fashion shows Spring/Summer 2013. From above: GUCCI, BLUMARINE, BURBERRY PRORSUM,CHANEL, DIOR, MOSCHINO, PRADA, UNIQUENESS By Alessandra Facchinetti, VERSACE.
Thank specifically to the great return of so much talked about “ad nauseam” by Elsa Schiaparelli. Shocking pink became popular in 1936 by the fashion designer who dedicated to it her second fragrance. In the thirties it became the banner of the joie de vivre, with an only creative goal: to free poetic imagination, letting out the world of dreams using childhood and fairytales references.
Eau de Parfum Shocking by ELSA SCHIAPARELLI 1936
It assumes strong and saturated tones even in make up. Electrical nuances with softshock effect for the Cromatic Color Palette 5 Coueleurs 854 Rose Charmeuse Dior with an effect “pied-de-poule” printed on the texture and the new lipstick l’Éclatante Rouge Allure Velvet by Chanel; shiny Luminizing Satin Eye Color Trio Shiseido; it is a stinging lash of expressionism the new generation of lipgloss, lip Maestro by Giorgio Armani, available in 12 variations of pink (due out in February); also the collections of Burberry and Tom Ford strike for their marked eroticism.
From left: Cromatic Color Palette 5 Coueleurs 854 Rose Charmeuse DIOR with an effect “pied-de-poule” printed on the texture and the new lipstick l’Éclatante Rouge Allure Velvet by CHANEL.
Then the shocking pink dissolves any hint of charm and assumes romantic tones, at times dull, in its Eau de Toilettes, out between January and March. Fatal Eau de Toilette Miss Dior, with a fairy carachter Féerie Spring Blossom by Van Cleef & Arpels, Valentina Valentino, Innamorata by Blumarine, Marry Me A La Folie by Lanvin.
From above:Féerie Spring Blossom by VAN CLEEF & ARPELS. Eau de Parfum JUICY COUTURE. Innamorata by BLUMARINE. Marry Me A La Folie by LANVIN.
Beauty is culture and as well as politic is there to guide people’s thoughts. The return of shocking pink of Elsa Schiaparelli is the creative strating point that takes us from the rigid austerity to a more playful and surreal atmosphere, which reminds us in difficult times that beauty, like fashion, is above all creation, which can always entertain and make us dream without stopping us from thinking. Long live to dreams then, because a laugh will bury us.
The new artistic ideas seem to want to attack the public. Some works are really explosive, exciting, shocking, politically incorrect, like BOOMS they place themselves on a collision course in a time of rampant passivity and conformism. They make images explode, from photography to fragrances, with a gesture of breaking, subverting ideologies, old practices and priorities.
Untitled N. 20 2012 CHRISTIAN WEBER
The energy of the explosive series of works of the New York-based filmmaker and photographer Christian Weber – who recently signed advertising campaigns for Bottega Veneta and BMW – are spectacular explosions. They successfully innovate the photographic work, freeing it from the obvious and most traditional hierarchies of seeing, representing and tell. His adrenalinic shoots turn outward plans and points of view. Disturbing. They break down and burst into the existing space, with a strong conceptual vocation. His new monographic book has recently been released, featuring all of his work. “Selected Works Volume 1” is available from Dashwood Books, it is an extensive body of work including iconic images of popular rappers, rockers and surfers, mysterious explosions, macabre still images and landscapes. The work of Ori Gersht its also very interesting and modern. His starting point are flowers as a reflection on life, on loss and destiny, created through the explosion of still life.
Still-Life ORI GERSHT
Photography just like Art Perfume, is exactly like fashion, field for semiotic investigations. No less subversive and enthralling, the latest experimental fragrance from Comme Des Garçons, Amazingreen, is a green energetic formula in its pure state. His debut explodes with hints of mineral and gunpowder notes. The fragrance has won on the internet, introducing itself online with an animated film in 3D with the excuse to cultivate a psychedelic interactive jungle, a kaleidoscopic world made of polygons geometry and the fluctuating calm chaos of nature, immersed in a landscape of vibrant crystals and irrational forms of life; exclusively on the experimental platform POST.
Eau de Parfum Amazingreen COMME DES GARÇONS
With muffled clamor, photographs, interactive performances and fragrances break silence with break’ conceptual gestures and give a nice jolt to public’s passivity, time imperturbability, to society and thought stagnation, revealing the beauty and intensity of each human being and the transience of things.
Le nuove idee artistiche sembrano voler aggredire il pubblico. Alcune opere sono davvero esplosive, coinvolgenti, spiazzanti, politicamente scorrette, come dei BOOM si pongono in rotta di collisione in tempi di dilagante passività e conformismo. Fanno deflagrare immagini dalla fotografia alle fragranze, con un gesto di rottura sovvertendo ideologie, vecchie pratiche e priorità.
L’energia della serie di opere esplosive del regista e fotografo newyorkese Christian Weber, – di recente ha firmato le campagne pubblicitarie di Bottega Veneta e BMW – sono spettacolari deflagrazioni. Innovano con successo l’opera fotografica, liberandola dalle ovvie e più tradizionali gerarchie del vedere, del rappresentare e del raccontare. I suoi scatti adrenalinici estroflettono piani e punti di vista. Inquietanti. Demoliscono e irrompono nello spazio esistente con una spiccata vocazione concettuale. È di recente uscita la sua nuova monografia che raccoglie tutti i suoi lavori. “Selected Works Volume 1” disponibile da Dashwood Books è un vasto insieme di lavori che include le immagini iconiche di popolarissimi rappers, rockers e surfers, le misteriose esplosioni, fermi immagini macabri e paesaggi. Altrettanto interessante e attuale l’opera di Ori Gersht. Il suo punto di partenza sono i fiori come riflessione sulla vita, sulla perdita e sul destino resa attraverso l’esplosione della natura morta.
La fotografia come l’arte profumiera resta come la moda materia d’indagine semiotica. Non meno sovversiva e trascinante, l’ultima fragranza sperimentale di Comme Des Garçons, Amazingreen è una formula verde energetica allo stato puro. Il suo esordio esplode di note minerali e di polvere da sparo. La fragranza ha conquistato subito la rete, presentandosi online con un film di animazione in 3D con il pretesto di coltivare una giungla psichedelica interattiva, un caleidoscopico mondo fatto di geometrie di poligoni e l’altalenante caos calmo della natura immersi in un paesaggio di vibranti cristalli e forme di vita cellulare irrazionali, in esclusiva sulla piattaforma sperimentale POST.
Con soffocato clamore fotografie, performance interattive e fragranze rompono il silenzio, con gesti concettuali di rottura, danno un bello scossone alla passività del pubblico, all’imperturbabilità del tempo, alla stasi di società e pensiero, rivelano la bellezza e l’intensità di ogni essere umano, la caducità delle cose.