LA FEMME FLEUR

In collaboration with Elle.it

Chypre fragrances by their nature combine strong feelings and intense colors just like floral bouquets of Dutch still lives, works by Puccini or Russian Ballets. The last in order of appearance, the new edition of Miss Dior Eau de Toilette which outlines the portrait of a troubled modern nymph.

It was the scent created by François Coty in 1917, Chypre, now disappeared from the market, to call this olfactory category named after the island of Aphrodite. Chypres can be given various interpretations, when floral or spicy notes are added to the main agreement, we obtain different variants: floral chypres, fruity, green, floral aldehyde, aromatic. Among historical chypres, on top of Chypre by Coty, also Mitsouko by Guerlain, “mystery” in Japanese, launched in 1919 and Miss Dior launched in 1947 which launched a proper fashion for “chypre vert”, introducing the green note of Galbanum, a new and creative aspect that gave modernity and liveliness to the olfactory family. The elaborate structure of Miss Dior and its refined freshness made it immediately unique.

Miss-Dior

Eau de Toilette Miss DIOR

The re-edition of Eau de Toilette Miss Dior its in most perfumeries from March, showing the iconographic values and the savoir faire of the house. The fragrance is like a spring breeze. The olfactory pyramid has a more sparkling structure than the Eau de Parfum. At first it strikes for its sparkling citrus notes, of red orange in its top notes, then it reveals a floral heart rich of essence of Turkish Rosa Damascena and Jasmine Sambac, to eventually end with woody notes of Patchouli from Indonesia. In its perfect execution, it sketches the contours of a portrait of a troubled modern nymph, a light and radiant presence characterized by that divine aura that seems to be the common denominator of certain people whose appeal transcends all borders. Bright pink cheeks, nude lips, upturned nose. A pair of sun-glasses to cover eyes, is finds the perfect embodiment in Natalie Portman, directed by Sofia Coppola in the advertisement campaign of the fragrance, set at the time of Dolce Vita.

Chypres created by great master perfumers have now entered the collective imagination. They go beyond fashion. they are a classic with infinite charm. Thanks to their olfactory harmonies, ordinary mortals know the scent of a divinity.

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GLOBAL COSMETICS

New treatments emancipate from the cult of appearance. Cosmetic surgery exported from the West has transformed bodies into “global brands.” These are the effects of standardised beauty, aesthetic rules domesticated and twisted to mass-mediatic obsessions. Target of young women and olders, passive, easily suggestible. Vital for scalpel’s industry. On the other hand, cosmetic industry promotes conservation, prevention and treatment aesthetic strategies. Treatments inspired by aesthetic and regenerative medicine protocols, with futuristic technology formulas, complex and rich in amino acids, proteins and ialuronic acid. Lifting serums, firming wrinkle fillers and dropper bottles of pharmaceutical type, targeted  treatments touch-on with hi tech packaging and with ultra-smoothing and pleasantly soft texture, create a flawless complexion with a simple touch. Available to purchase in best pharmacies and perfumeries, even recommended before aesthetic medicine surgeries.

Global Cosmetic

From left: Perfectionist [CP + R] Line Smoother ESTÉE LAUDER. Re-Plasty Pro Filler – Intense Wrinkle Corrector & Elasticity Restorer HELENA RUBINSTEIN. Premier Cru – The Cream CAUDALIE.

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GAMES FOR THE EVENING

In collaboration with Elle.it

What is a party?“. Writes Roland Barthes, “1 – A partition that isolates a group away from others. 2 – A partouze, which binds erotically all participants“. And he explains. “In Sade and Fourier, the party is the highest form of happiness, corporate or Sadian, and it has this threefold character: it is a sociable ceremony, an erotic practice, a social act“. Within this context, participants, who are nothing but the consumer society, shall state their desires, preambles, create contexts and ambiguous sublimations.

GIOCHI PER LA SERA

From left: Essence Cologne Travel Spray ACQUA DI PARMA. The stylish case is made of soft black calf  handmade leather. The Acqua di Parma logo is dry- imprinted. Practical, ideal to have on the road. Guilty Black GUCCI Pour Homme is an aphrodisiac with a base of patchouli and cedar wood that binds together with orange blossom, neroli, coriander and lavender. It evokes a certain undisciplined youth.

From an olfactory point of view, odors have a primary role. They are just the right encouragement to satisfy desire. New men’s fragrances have very dark olfactory pyramids, play an emblematic role in the erotic scenario of contemporary gentleman: they chart the field in which can run charms, invites and most of all the rules of the game. Enjoy!

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HEDI SLIMANE’ S CONCRETISM

My personal point of view on menswear Saint Laurent Paris par Hedi Slimane. The stylistical and music question of this collection proves a new beginning of historic French fashion house, with a show based on solid values of concreteness that are concentrated in a constant dialogue between form and function. A prime example of someone who remains true to himself.

Hedi Slimane, Creative Director of Saint Laurent Paris has remained true to his modus operandi: he went on designing men’s collections following a process of abstraction and synthesis. He remained coherent to the modernist style that he had left behind him, summarizing in himself all hallmarks that have characterized his style tied to a way of feeling rather than a fashion period of time; fed by the taste in a constant dialogue between fashion and music. There is most of all a generational difference between the first period of Yves Saint Laurent and the work of archive seized upon by successors. While Yves in the seventies attended the cultural ferments of the Factory in New York and the excesses of Studio 54, Hedi Slimane has chosen Los Angeles, setting this way all his work on a different geographical and aesthetic board, Paris-Los Angeles. He goes across the globe including a wider range of experiences, mixing and combining pieces from couture to street fashion, High and Low. If at first  the Parisian chic attended New York in the years of glam-rock, now the new fashionable buyer attends the Hollywood hills taking in the grunge and existential style of Californian rockers. The result of this transformation can be seen clearly in the collection shown in Paris on the 20th of January.

Saint-Laurent-Paris-2013

With romantic expression, male silhouette of his clothes has remained edgy, gothic with skeletal slim fit, mixing resumed styles of heavy-metal groups from California in the early 80s and Nirvana in the 90s, plaid work shirt and faded jeans are the mirror of grunge, which reflect in its most extreme form the existential indifference more or less irreverent and naive coming from underground jungles of peripheral towns. The collection consists of ripped jeans, biker pants or made of leather, with checked shirts held together by micro elegant jackets with opulent decor, leather biker jackets and knee high jackets with sagged shoulders and cloaks that only a European tailors can conceive. It appears systematically romantic, rebellious, depressed, pessimistic, violent, poetic, nihilistic, unhinged, decadent, (fake)-shabby, in (fake)-decay, thin, with a power not common among other designers.

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Fashion Show F-W 2013 SAINT LAURENT PARIS par HEDI SLIMANE

Volumes are minimized to the max. Strict in proportions. Cuts are sharp and graphics have found in their return a timeless classicism, very different from the stagnant classicism of most next season collections- made of layers it mixes clothes from tailors’ and musical rhythms of underground society in an intelligent work of recycling. Slimane’  solidity passes mainly through the formula music = structure, in which music supports principles related to form; while structure supports principles related to function. Key and unalterable points of consistency and concretism. When Hedi Slimane left Dior in 2007, devoting himself to photography, the ghost of his work remained present more than ever in many collections as a “style” uniform sometimes evident on trends without pathos, capable of arousing superficial enthusiasm. Without declaring it, everyone quoted his skeletal silhouette which has marked the epochal taste from high couture to large distributions. The style of Hedi Slimane will never go out of fashion because its close to those essential and necessary  values related to the strength of style and music. Rest assured, the time of the skinny boy with skeleton outfit  is not over. This is the Zeitgheist. Take it or leave it.

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BEAUTY LOW COST: the Etat Pur case.

Photography SERENA ELLER Realization ALESSIO NESI

Minimum cost, maximum performance, is the most important principle of contemporary consumers. The same principle also applies to cosmetics that creates multitasking customised cosmetic lines with low environmental impact. The trend of low cost beauty, launched with BB Creams in summer 2012, has also been extended to face and body skin-care. Etat Pur, for example, is a French brand with high performance products for the care and cleaning of face and body, that do not exceed the cost of 20 euro. It provides targeted solutions for every type of skin with a line consisting of two different ranges that can be used separately or together.

Etat Pur

The Pure Actives (A+) solve skin problems in a targeted manner, the Biomimetic Skincare (+B) for daily use to respect natural biological balance. Their combination (A + B) is a color palette that allows to find the right solution for all skin types according to everybody’s needs, age and lifestyle. 50% of all dividends are donated to foundations for sustainable development of biological assets, for the pursuit of health and the fight against skin aging. So all is possible even with little money.

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