In collaboration with Elle.it
The particular Jour d’Hermès, created by master perfumer of French fashion house Jean-Claude Ellena, is a unique scent based on citrus hints. A light and vibrant water, enclosed in a bottle with a minimalist and elegant structure, designed for the occasion by the shoe and jewellery designer Pierre Hardy, it is already a collector’s item. The simple olfactory structure is a fruitful creator of images. With emotional reverb, wide and deep, it projects spirit in the infinity like a ray of sunshine goes through feelings of emptiness and absence, it expands boundaries between human finitude and infinity of nature. Emotions evoked by the attractiveness of this liquid have a calming effect, capable to bring calm to our darkest thoughts.
Eau de Parfum Jour d’Hermès
In the library of Hermès’ perfumes, each fragrance has a story, every scent opens an imagination that each of us can make our own expression of identity and then share it with others.
My personal point of view on fall-winter 2013-2014 collections through an inventory of images selected from the most interesting shows.
It is not a new couture. It is not even a new avant-garde aesthetic. Surely it is a reassuring style that belongs since always to an intellectual tradition, the one that emerges from fall-winter 2013-2014 collections which upsets half-measures and combines aesthetic currents pro and against artificiality and naturalness. D’Annunzio’s femme fatals and june filles from Proustian “recherche”.
Four models from fall-winter 2013-2014 fashion shows; clockwise from top: GIVENCHY, GUCCI, DRIES VAN NOTEN, LANVIN.
Romantic and spiritual as pre-raphaelite muses. Designed to restore an order of aesthetic values in a continuous decline atmosphere. Research of rigid or fluid structures. Perfection of straight cuts and rigourous symmetries. Collision between heavy and light fabrics. Silk voile, sewn together with a “mille foglie” effect. Floral prints. Lace and feather dresses. Long fetish black leather gloves. Stilettos. No abdication to the subtle erotic power of clothing. Its new decadence.
Two models from VALENTINO‘s fall-winter 2013-2014 fashion show.
Ophelia – JOHN EVERETT MILLAIS – 1852 – London. Tate Gallery.
In collaboration with Elle.it
Precious Eau de Toilettes entertain refined and exquisite sensations with oriental floral arrangements, just like narcotics, enriched with hints of Vanilla and Caramel. They are inspired by D’Annunzio’s Femmes Fatales and embody and exemplify sensitivity and taste of decadence, related to taste for beauty as intrigue, mystery and erotism. A beauty full of tasty and persistent hints, involving an education to hearing, rather than seeing, with willingness to be excited.
Eau de Toilette PRADA Candy
Prada Candy Eau de Toilette is a fatal distillate for femmes fatales in which availability to sensory nature’s stimuli becomes the leitmotif for artifice’s search. Spring waters emphasize lust for enjoyment of all aspects of nature, to a feeling in itself, shared as source of pure enjoyment, spell, seduction; they awaken senses, invincible force of eros, modern myth linked to cult of originality and reproducibility of a brand.
Proprietexclusive pays tribute to Gabriele D’Annunzio on the occasion of the 150th year since he was born (March 12, 1863), with the interpretation of new Eau de Toilettes. They embody the typology of Femme Fatal in varied incarnations in D’Annunzio’s literature.
Photography ALESSANDRO CESKA Realization ALESSIO NESI
Scents are aspirational. They can reach other destinations and make us forget the relative poverty through a splash of luxury. They allow us to travel back in time or to experience feelings related to fashion, literature or art. Olfactory sensations celebrate beauty and they go hand in hand with visual ones. It is a kind of beauty that involves the education of the eye, an ability and willingness to be touched and moved by seeing as well as feeling. A must see in itself, offered and shared as a source of pure pleasure: bait of seduction, ritual offering, magical phenomenon. This is done through photography when the picture is taken by an 1905 Goerz Anschüz. This way an inventory of images can tell new spring Eau de Toilettes and revive the atmosphere of late nineteenth century, celebrating an unchanged narcissistic desire. Precious Eau de Toilettes entertain refined and exquisite sensations with oriental narcotizing floral arrangements, enriched with hints of Vanilla and Caramel. They are inspired by the Femme Fatal typycal of D’Annunzio. They embody and exemplify sensitivity, taste of decadence and joie de vivre. They seem to want to pay tribute to the poet on the occasion of his 150th since its inception (March 12, 1863). They are a fatal distillation for femmes fatales in which the availability to sensory stimuli of nature becomes the leitmotif for the search of artifice. They emphasize lust for enjoyment of all aspects of nature and as rain in a pinetree they awaken senses and the invincible force of eros.
It takes shape on Ippolita Sanzio, female character of the Triumph of Death, the new Eau de Parfum Desire by DOLCE & GABBANA The One. Latin beauty, with an irresistible force; her erotic fascination is capable to reduce a man to a slave. It perfectly embodies the features of “divine” Elena Muti, protagonist of Pleasure, the new Floral Water Valentina by VALENTINO.
Quite different from Elena Muti and Hippolyta Sanzio is the femininity of Mila starring with Aligi de Daughter of Jorio. L’Eau by PRADA Candy , perfectly embodies the adolescent innocence of this pastoral piece character. It identifies herself in the mythical Erminone, female character of Pioggia nel Pineto (poem from the third book by Alcyone, of the poetic piece Laudi del cielo del mare della terra e degli eroi), the new Eau de Parfum Jour by HERMÈS mostly for its citrus notes of Mediterranean forest.
The shift to digital has created an archetype of beauty absolutely flawless. Changing our appearance, in a completely natural way, nearly effortless, through artificial devices, can be possible. Popular cosmetic companies have created BB Creams – Blemish Balms, anti-imperfection balms useful to even out complexion with an effect just like photoshop on our skin. Born in Germany in 1968 to regenerate and cover irregularities of skin after laser interventions, they eventually exploded in Korea and Southeast Asia only 3 years ago.
From above: Skin Nude BB Creme & Rose Powder DIOR. Perfect Hydrating BB Cream SPF 30 SHISEIDO. DearWear BB Creme ESTÉE LAUDER.
They are hybrid creams with light and impalpable textures, which cover completely and which replace traditional foundations; they even out complexion, reflecting light in order to mitigate shadows caused by wrinkles or blemishes; they moisturize 24 hours and protect against UV rays. The trick is there but its not possible to see it. While the “natural complexion” trend of the BB Creams is stated on the market, Asian bloggers are already talking about CC Cream, Color and Control. Technology compensates for nature’s avarice and it is always easier in the contemporary era to emulate our personal model of perfection.