DE PROFUNDIS: SERGE LUTENS NEW SILLAGE

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Elegant. Intimate. Poetic. The new sillage by Serge Lutens, the spiritual master of essences, is a melancholy ouverture built around notes of chrysanthemum and incense. It was born in the decadent atmosphere of De Profundis poetry of Baudelaire from which takes its name and it represents a lyrical vision of death that moves among us, but most of all a journey into the fearful dark side of our soul. A noir, gothic, funeral hint kept in its new bottle prism-shaped tout noir which gives it the appearance of a dangerous, hallucinogenic potion. Beyond gothic connotations linked to the name and the composition of this fragrance, De Profundis is not only poetry but also an allegory of death that hides in itself the prelude of a rebirth: a wish of light over darkness.

SergeLutens-ProprietexclusiveMy own personal interpretation of De Profundis by SERGE LUTENS

 

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THE FEATHERLESS BOYS BY HEDI SLIMANE

In fashion nowadays on everything theres a rochy Saint Laurent air, because Hedi Slimane managed to reset global clock since the times of the collections for Dior Homme. The effect is seen on almost all male catwalks.

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DIOR HOMME by HEDI SLIMANE  – Solitaire – F-W- 2001-2002 – ph R. Avedon

The featherless boys by Slimane. An aesthetic journey began 15 years ago. Skinny rockers, electric metissage which today from Saint Laurent is a little more than a styling exercise, which succeeds where others fail: sell the dream of eternal youth.

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Male catwalks SAINT LAURENT by HEDI SLIMANE. From left: Fall-Winter 2015, Spring-Summer 2016. 

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Male catwalks. From left: LANVIN Paris Fall-Winter 2015, PAUL SMITH Spring-Summer 2016.

Su tutto ormai nella moda aleggia un’aria rock alla Saint Laurent, perché Hedi Slimane è riuscito a resettare l’orologio globale dello stile già ai tempi delle collezioni di Dior Homme. L’effetto lo si vede in quasi tutte le passerelle maschili. I ragazzi implume di Slimane. Un percorso estetico iniziato 15 anni fa. Skinny rockers, metissage elettrico che oggi da Saint Laurent è poco più di un esercizio di styling, ma che riesce dove gli altri falliscono: vendere il sogno dell’eterna giovinezza.

 

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EMILIO PUCCI BY MASSIMILIANO GIORGETTI

Yesterday I properly observed Massimiliano Giorgetti’s first collection for EMILIO PUCCI and I remembered that avant-garde has a degree of very fast obsolescence. It becomes decadent very quickly. The Marquis of Barsento used to wear and still now dresses the international jet-set. His prints are the reason why the brand has become famous throughout the world.

Pucci-ProprietexclusiveFrom left: GUCCI Fall 2015; PUCCI Spring-Summer 2016.

Decontextualise and apply them on fishnets has removed all its charm from the brand. GUCCI 2015 fall collection styling has made me look at new PUCCI Creative Director just like a used cars dealer.

 

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VALENTINO DONNA: TIMELESS FRAGRANCE

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Rome. Center of Valentino’s spirit, both context and value of an aesthetic system built with references, metaphors, similitudes; chasing the timeless ideal of beauty seen as good. This new woman fragrance turns into liquid expression the set en plein air of the eternal city. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli along with perfumers Sonia Constant and Antoine Maisondieu have imagined a perfume that seems to be there since always. Valentino Donna is a fragrance with a subtle but yet deep charisma, completely against vulgarity. Classic and strong. Delicate and elegant. Capable of enhancing the unattainable savoir faire of ateliers. The olfactory structure is a research of synthesis between noble and delicates ingredients such as Pale Iris which illuminates its sillage with typically Italian scents. The ethereal vestal of Valentino is interpreted by the spanish, young actress and model Àstrid Bergès-Frisbey, portrayed by Steven Meisel and directed by Louis Garrel. Valentino fragrances represent the timeless italian style. It evolves, but in reality it does not change. Just like Rome.

VALENTINO-ProprietexclusiveMy own interpretation of Valentino Donna by VALENTINO

 

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PARTY GIRL

The cohesion of all that can exist in a wardrobe built with necessary complications and indispensable hedonism: the encounter between formal rigor of tailoring and streetwear. The collision between precious fabrics and techno. Styling combines charm and weakness of feminine contradictory and create collections for party queens referring to a target in search of eternal youth.

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Spring – Summer 2016 collections. From left: SAINT LAURENT by Hedi Slimane, LANVIN by Alber Elbaz.

La coesione di tutto ciò che può esistere in un guardaroba costruito con complicazioni necessarie ed edonismi indispensabili: l’incontro tra il rigore formale del tailoring e lo streetwear. L’urto tra tessuti preziosi e techno. Lo styling unisce il fascino e la debolezza della contraddittorietà femminile e crea collezioni per reginette della festa riferendosi a un target alla ricerca dell’eterna giovinezza.

 

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