A saturated, vivid, cold and artificial color becomes protagonist of Spring-Summer 2018 make-up collections, on blush, eyeshadows, lipstick and eye pencils. Nuances by the POP heritage are enriched with sophisticated metropolitan metallic effects coming straight from the New York underground society of the ’70s and’ 80s; they are are a mix of glamour and primordial hedonism. In a present which lacks in clear reference points and in which everyone resembles something without being so, yesterday icons become a reference point for tomorrow’s look, so to a small group of evergreen icons like Madonna, Candy Darling, Debbie Harry, Grace Jones, Edie Sedgwick and Bianca Jagger, the task of narrating beauty-trends of this season in a selection of images.
MADONNA – Poudre à Lèvres Lip Balm and Powder Duo 415 Rosso Parthenope, Rouge Allure Velvet 66 L’Indomabile. Spring – Summer Collection 2018 CHANEL.
CANDY DARLING – Meteorites Palette + Lipstick KissKissLove N°573 Spring – Summer Collection 2018 by GUERLAIN Paris.
DEBBY HARRY – Magnify 5 Couleurs + Dior Addict Mascara It-Lash, Spring – Summer Collection 2018 by DIOR.
GRACE JONES – Lipstick Ecstasy Shine N°101 (Nuda) + N°200 (Silenzio), Spring – Summer Collection 2018 by GIORGIO ARMANI.
EDIE SEDGWICK – Full Metal Shadow N°19 Junky Tangerine Spring – Summer Collection 2018 by YSL.
BIANCA JAGGER – Phyto-Lip Twist Packshot Ballet + L’Ochidée (blush enlumineur au lys blanc), Spring – Summer Collection 2018 by SISLEY Paris.
Autumn / Winter 2017 make-up collections take inspiration from nature. They are a road trip among continents with the aim of discovering the lights and colors of the world: from the darkness of Indian forests to the subtropical landscapes of Savannah, metropolitan realities, countryside gardens. A journey to create unreleased combinations with new shades of color coming from tree barks, flowers, water depths, fresh air but also from tire tracks, headlamp lights and so on… Soft textures with metallic effects for a radiant and natural color revolutionized by new application techniques which redefine gestuality with a simple touch.
Make-Up Metallics Collection by DIOR Fall17, clockwise: lipstick 999 Metallic, nail varnish Paradox 917, Palette 5 Couleurs 457 Fascinate.
Make-Up Collection by SISLEY Paris Fall17, clockwise: Phyto-Blush Twist Petal, Phyto Sourcils Design 3 Brun, Rouge à Levrès Longue Tenue.
Make-Up Collection Travel Diary by CHANEL Fall17, clockwise: Rouge Allure Velvet 64 First Light, Essential Palette, Stylo Sourcils Waterproof Eye Brown Pencil.
Built differences. Futuristic journey. Orientalism. Westernism. New spring fragrances reveal the fluid nature of the community. Each olfactory creation is a dot on an imaginary map. Bouquets of surreal no gender perfumes, created with agreements of woody notes, dry and deep, intensified by the freshness of sparkling tones of molecules recreated synthetically in laboratories; a slight touch of liquid air that brings with itself a light mountain breeze.
New Flowerbomb Bloom Eau de Toilette by VIKTOR & ROLF. In the heart of the fragrance, an infusion of a molecule of pure air captured in the Pacific Northwest Mountains and recreated synthetically.
L’Eau # 5 by CHANEL. From 1921 to today, Chanel N°5 is the first modern fragrance for women. A true timeless cult that over the years has managed to reinvent itself without betraying itself. The secret? An unpublished cocktail of natural and synthetic notes, contained in the iconic bottle and a bit of luck because launched on May the 5th, in the fifth month of the year.
Velvet Cypress by DOLCE & GABBANA. Woody and citrusy fragrance, inspired by one of the protagonists of Mediterranean landscape: Italian Cypress.
GUCCI Guilty Absolute Eau de Parfum. The fragrance of rouged peacocks, born by the collaboration between Alessandro Michele, Creative Director and Alberto Morillas, maître perfumer, with ingredients rediscovered under the glass bell in the archive of the Royal Botanical Gardens.
Mon GUERLAIN Eau de Parfum is a feminine fragrance of the Woody-Eastern group. The starting point is the Carla Lavender, often present in men’s fragrances, which adds powerful and sensual notes and absolute modernity.
Soleil Au Zenith PRADA Olfactories Les Mirages. A myriad of sensations in an oriental unisex fragrance, created with agreements of Ylang Ylang, Peach and Sandalwood on a strong note of Vanilla. Miuccia Prada together with the creator of Prada fragrances Daniele Andrier, revisit the art of parfumery as on a global atlas.
New Spring-Summer 20017 make-up collections celebrate the chromatic exuberance of tropical paradises told with the technique with which I realize scarves for the companies I work with. Each design interprets the make up collection of each brand. A journey to discover the autobiographical traits linked to the history of every beauty maison that are renewed every season with irreverent originality. This is how the new BEAUTY-PAGES by ALESSIO NESI come to life.
Coco Code Make-up Collection Spring-Summer 2017 by CHANEL. From left: COCO CODE palette, Style Yeux Waterproof Mat Taupe, Rouge Allure Velvet 176 Indépendante.
Make-up Collection Spring – Summer 2017 by TOM FORD. From left: Orchid Soleil EDP, Lip Balm Coral Reef Dark, Countour Compact White.
Tropical Spring Make-up Collection Spring – Summer 2017 by DOLCE & GABBANA. From left: The Eyeshadow Duo in Tropical Coral 135, The Nail Lacquer in Beach Sand 817, Passion Duo Lipstick in Tropical Coral 145.
Make-up collection by CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN. From left: Lipstick Silky Satin Miss Clichy, CEil Vinyle Eye-liner.
Make-up Collection Spring – Summer 2017 by ESTĒE LAUDER. From left: Lipstick RNAK11, RP2W07, RP2W09, RP2W06.
Make-up Collection Spring – Summer 2017 by YVES SAINT LAURENT. From left: Nail Lacquer Vandal Orange 81, Pencil Pink Graffiti, Lipstick Rose Marceau.
Direction NEIL BARRETT Interview and Beauty Consultant ALESSIO NESI Make Up Artist MASSIMILIANO DELLA MAGGESA Photography CAROLINA AMORETTI
Neil Barrett’s aesthetic provides a taste of dry and minimal lines. The cut follows principles of abduction and summary in oder to find the absolute form in the outline of the figure, severe and essential. This same way, even the search for make-up, status symbols of every fashion-house, identifies a DNA made of detached purism. Elegant, not improvised, Neil Barrett’s neo grooming is a semiotic system of pure and “constructivist” geometric forms.
Simple signs, interpreted through monochrome black, saturated and opaque, express an independent soul, synthesize a unique body of work condensed into a visual story made of six images, which, in this global area, resets the differences between male and female and do not abandon themselves to the ghosts of the past.
How would you describe your work in purely aesthetic terms? Graphic blocking, neutral colours plus one accent only.
How was the make-up of Neil Barrett realised ? Which the developments? To take specific graphic images that we use in our prints, interiors and packaging and apply them to another canvas, the face.
Which is your relationship with colour and how do you approach the relationship with make up? I like to achieve impact without using colour to see all trough monochromatic black and white lense and still have the strenght of the image. Otherwise when I do use colour, I use one colour only or many tones of one colour.
Your definition of beauty? Purity of line, balanced imperfection.
How did your relationship with Video develop? It’s a backstage of this work, as we would do with a fashion show… but recorded spontaneously with an Iphone.
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In the second half of last century when Yves Saint Laurent was creating his collections, he was always influenced by whatever was going on around him. His clothes were beautiful, especially the collection of 1978, an objective fact. In a time when App for new experiences are absolutely exploding, love becomes fluid, we love outside of our usual schemes. Everything is mixed to the underground and to music. Mon Paris, the new fragrance by Yves Saint Laurent, is a calm chaos, it creates the vertigo of a love story that lives the instant euphoria. Harmony inspired by the essence of the Ville Lumière, but if you expected the classical retro trail of scent, you will be disappointed, Mon Paris is the first narcotic white chypre with an hypnotic sillage created by the collaboration of three famous perfumers: Oliver Cresp, Dora Bagriche and Harry Fremont.
My interpretation of Mon Paris YSL
The olfactory harmony reverses the usual structure of chypre scents, composed by the elixir of Datura – hallucinogenic and poisonous flower, used by the Aztecs in their shamanistic rites and captured by Firmenich with the headspace technique – softened by the variety of Patchouli from Guatemala and Indonesia which create a persistent base over time. Essential as a smoking jacket, feverish as the city to which it is dedicated, Mon Paris, is a lysergic fragrance that keeps suspended and inert in a state of apparent calm right in line with the zeitgeist. A masterpiece.