NEIL BARRETT’S CONSTRUCTIVISM

Direction NEIL BARRETT Interview and Beauty Consultant ALESSIO NESI Make Up Artist MASSIMILIANO DELLA MAGGESA Photography CAROLINA AMORETTI

Neil Barrett’s aesthetic provides a taste of dry and minimal lines. The cut follows principles of abduction and summary in oder to find the absolute form in the outline of the figure, severe and essential. This same way, even the search for make-up, status symbols of every fashion-house, identifies a DNA made of detached purism. Elegant, not improvised, Neil Barrett’s neo grooming is a semiotic system of pure and “constructivist” geometric forms.

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Simple signs, interpreted through monochrome black, saturated and opaque, express an independent soul, synthesize a unique body of work condensed into a visual story made of six images, which, in this global area, resets the differences between male and female and do not abandon themselves to the ghosts of the past.

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How would you describe your work in purely aesthetic terms? Graphic blocking, neutral colours plus one accent only.
 How was  the make-up of Neil Barrett realised ? Which the developments? To take specific graphic images that we use in our prints, interiors and packaging and apply them to another canvas, the face.

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Which is your relationship with colour and how do you approach the relationship with make up? I like to achieve impact without using colour to see all trough monochromatic black and white lense and still have the strenght of the image. Otherwise when I do use colour, I use one colour only or many tones of one colour.

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Your definition of beauty? Purity of line, balanced imperfection.

 How did your relationship with Video develop? It’s a backstage of this work, as we would do with a fashion show… but recorded spontaneously with an Iphone.

 

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MON PARIS THE NEW FRAGRANCE BY YSL

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In the second half of last century when Yves Saint Laurent was creating his collections, he was always influenced by whatever was going on around him. His clothes were beautiful, especially the collection of 1978, an objective fact. In a time when App for new experiences are absolutely exploding, love becomes fluid, we love outside of our usual schemes. Everything is mixed to the underground and to music. Mon Paris, the new fragrance by Yves Saint Laurent, is a calm chaos, it creates the vertigo of a love story that lives the instant euphoria. Harmony inspired by the essence of the Ville Lumière, but if you expected the classical retro trail of scent, you will be disappointed, Mon Paris is the first narcotic white chypre with an hypnotic sillage created by the collaboration of three famous perfumers: Oliver Cresp, Dora Bagriche and Harry Fremont.

MonParis-AlessioNesi My interpretation of Mon Paris YSL

The olfactory harmony reverses the usual structure of chypre scents, composed by the elixir of Datura – hallucinogenic and poisonous flower, used by the Aztecs in their shamanistic rites and captured by Firmenich with the headspace technique – softened by the variety of Patchouli from Guatemala and Indonesia which create a persistent base over time. Essential as a smoking jacket, feverish as the city to which it is dedicated, Mon Paris, is a lysergic fragrance that keeps suspended and inert in a state of apparent calm right in line with the zeitgeist. A masterpiece.

 

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YOKAY: DEMONS OF BEAUTY IN NO-AGE ERA

THE CONCEPT OF TRANSFORMATION. COSMETIC RECIPES AND NEW BLACK FACIAL TREATMENTS. TODAY PURITY IS REGAINED THIS WAY.

To be innovative we need to be sensational. In a mature market such as the one of anti-age, new treatments have renowed technologies and an original approach. To skincare lines is applied the concept of transformation, up to today reserved only to makeup. Face and body care, with black texture as pitch, to reconquest a radiant skin. Moisturizing and exfoliating masks, with active formulas and  immediate results as straight out of a beauty-farm. A formula designed for each part of the face. From T-zone to décolleté, to improve complexion and very effective against  first signs of aging, ensuring faces like sleeping beauty, even first application creates a horror movie effect. YOKAI, a beauty video published on NOWNESS, realised by GILDA SCAGLIONI and FRANCESCO PETRONI, tells the connection between aesthetics and monstrosities, starting from the meaning of the title that combines the two 妖 characters (YO) – charming, dangerous – and 怪 (KAI) – Mystery, wonder. An anthology of six supernatural creatures from japanese folklore, ironic and surreal, created with the application of superconcentrated formulas, to give the viewer a gothic vision of good bourgeois habits, the exasperation of beauty-trend of the moment and a new creative adventure in the language of beauty where different ways of appearance are more than ever an artistic sign full of expressive forms of research, provocations, still to be subverted, undone, defined.

Text and Beauty Collage ALESSIO NESI

YOKAY-CollageAlessioNesiCharacters: TENJŌ KUDARI Performed by ANNEFLEUR MAAT, Pore Refining Solutiontions by CLINIQUE, Pure Ritual Care-In-Peel by HELENA RUBINSTEINspecial Blackwood Whitening Thootpaste by SPLAT. KUCHISAKE-ONNA Performed by ANITA JOO, The Brightening Facial Mask by LA MERYOSUZUME Performed by EMIL ANDERSON, Re-Nutritive Mask by ESTÉE LAUDERYUKI-ONNA Performed by LADA PAVLOVA, Sublimage Masque Précision by CHANEL, Clear-Up Strips by NIVEA. KUBIRE ONI Performed by FEDERICO NOVELLO, Volcanic Ash Exfoliator Mineralize by MAC COSMETICS. Special Blackwood Whitening Thootpaste by SPLAT. KATSURA OTOKO Performed by EMIL ANDERSON, Gold Bio-Collagen Facial Mask.

YOKAI. A Film by GILDA SCAGLIONI & FRANCESCO PETRONI Director of Photography PAOLO SIMI Beauty Editor ALESSIO NESI Make-up Artist GIORGIA PAMBIANCHI, on set Producer ISABEL MIGLIORE.

To watch this video open the link of NOWNESS

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Per essere innovativi bisogna essere sensazionali. In un mercato maturo come quello degli antietà i nuovi trattamenti hanno tecnologie rinnovate e sono studiati con originalità nell’approccio. Alle linee skincare viene applicato il concetto di trasformazione, fino a oggi riservato solo al makeup. Cure per viso e corpo, con texture nere come la pece, per la riconquista della pelle radiosa. Maschere idratanti ed esfolianti, hanno formule attive, con risultati da beauty-farm immediati. Ogni formula è studiata per ogni parte del viso al décolleté. Migliorano l’incarnato e si rivelano efficaci contro i primi inestetismi dell’età assicurando la sleepers face da Bella Addormentata, nonostante l’applicazione crea un effetto da film horror. YOKAI il video beauty pubblicato su WWW.NOWNESS.COM, realizzato da GILDA SCAGLIONI e FRANCESCO PETRONI, racconta la connessione tra estetismo e mostruosità partendo dal significato del titolo che coniuga i due caratteri 妖 (YO) — affascinate, pericoloso — e 怪 (KAI) — mistero, meraviglia. Un florilegio di sei creature sovrannaturali del folklore giapponese, ironici e surreali, creati con l’applicazione delle formule superconcentrate, restituiscono allo spettatore una visione gotica delle buone abitudini borghesi, l’esasperazione del beauty-trend del momento e una nuova avventura creativa nel linguaggio della bellezza in cui i diversi modi di apparire sono più di sempre un segno artistico carico di forme espressive di ricerca, di provocazioni, ancora tutte da sovvertire, annullare, definire.

 

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MIRROR MIRROR

Photography MONZINO Realization ALESSIO NESI

The Mirror. Key theme of historical symbolism, where to the motif of Narcissus is overlapped that of Dorian Gray: just like his portrait, the mirror contains and reveals the secret self and looking at our own reflection means to get rid of the social mask in order to recognize our self in our innermost truth. But the mirror becomes also a Pandora’s box and a “psyche” tool. Perilous temptation as well as revelation of the most secret contents of consciousness. From the myth of Narcissus to Alice in Wonderland until today.

CocoMadamoiselle-Chanel Coco Mademoiselle by CHANEL

The image  reasons trespass in the universe of the illusion. In both surreal and paradox. So the reflection of ourselves, that of others, the overturned dimension of space, time and objects, becomes a fascinating and inescapable resource. The mirror surface and the refracted surface, as a painted canvas or a written page, in their signing a transition from reality to an alternative dimension, legitimize the focus of sublimations and fantastic digressions.

MissDior-Dior Miss Dior Blooming Bouquet by CHRISTIAN DIOR

Fantasies and projections are protagonists of an hypothetical territory where right can be left, above can be below, the bottom can be up. The paradox continues when we realize that, if for the outside that is just a glass, we continue to see our own reflection. Beyond the threshold exists our other. Are we seductive or seduced? Architects or witnesses? Unique or reproducible? Deep or superficial?

Opium-YSL Black Opium by YVES SAINT LAURENT

Lo specchio. Tema chiave del simbolismo storico, dove al motivo di Narciso si sovrappone quello di Dorian Gray: proprio come suo il ritratto, lo specchio contiene e rivela l’io segreto e guardarsi riflessi equivale a gettare la maschera sociale per riconoscersi nella propria più intima verità. Ma lo specchio diventa anche un vaso di Pandora e strumento di Psiche. Perigliosa tentazione e insieme rivelazione dei contenuti più segreti della coscienza. Dal mito di Narciso a “Alice in Wonderland” fino a oggi. Le ragioni dell’immagine sconfinano nell’universo dell’illusione. Nel surreale e nel paradosso. Così il riflesso della nostra persona, quello degli altri, la dimensione ribaltata dello spazio, del tempo, degli oggetti, si trasforma in affascinante e ineludibile risorsa. La superficie specchiante e la forma rifratta, come una tela dipinta o la pagina scritta, nel loro siglare un passaggio dalla realtà a una dimensione alternativa legittimano la messa a fuoco di sublimazioni e divagazioni fantastiche. Fantasie e proiezioni protagoniste di un territorio ipotetico, la destra può essere a sinistra, il sopra sotto, il basso in alto. Il paradosso prosegue quando ci accorgiamo che, se per l’ambiente quello è un vetro, noi continuiamo a vedere la nostra immagine riflessa. Oltre la soglia esiste il nostro altro. Siamo seducenti o siamo sedotti? Artefici o testimoni? Unici o riproducibili? Profondi o superficiali?

 

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NOCTURNE

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Photography MONZINO Realization ALESSIO NESI

The magic of twilight colors. An oversaturated color palette, for a difficult and sumptuous make-up. A decadent classic that still manages to surprise in its dark version. Nuances retain all boldness, vitality and freshness of summer colors, creating a range of bright colors on lips and eyes, with formulas as a thin as film, permanent and sticky as a tattoo. Tailored and healing, thanks to new technopigments, enriched with essential oils, wrapping color into a shadows without contaminating it, keeping alive the reflection deleting the dark. Featuring: a dark soul, capable of producing dark effects of intense theatrical fascination.

Notturno-Proprietexclusive

From left: Eye tint 13 Zenith GIORGIO ARMANI. Écrin 6 Couleurs Beaugrenelle GUERLAIN. Lipstick 345 oranfe Fizz KissKiss GUERLAIN. Eau de Toilette Black Opium YVES SAINT LAURENT. Nail varnish 665 Vibrato CHANEL. Eyesadow & Liner 275 Cosmic DIOR Addict.

 

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COSMOPOLITAN DIOR

Autumn 2015 Dior make-up captures metropolitan dusk glow and returns its fairy and magic charm with shiny iridescences with cold tones. Reinforced by the harmonious silver contrast, with matt and metallic tones, pinks and purples are veils of color that shade the eyes. Rocking hedonism is synonymous of strong personality. No affection. Tough look  and the attitude of a fighter. Aesthetics is dictated by the metropolitan and abrasive dynamics of an asphalted jungle.

Dior-Proprietexclusive 

5 Couleurs Cosmopilite 866 Eclectic by DIOR.

Il maquillage dell’autunno 2015 di Dior cattura i bagliori del crepuscolo metropolitano e ne restituisce l’incanto magico e fatato con irridescenze lucide dai toni freddi. Rinforzate dall’armonico contrasto dell’argento, nei toni matt e metallizzato, i rosa e i viola sono velature di colore che ombreggiano gli occhi. Edonismo rockeggiante è sinonimo di forte personalità. Nessuna smanceria. Sguardo duro e atteggiamento combattivo. L’estetica viene dettata dai dinamismi metropolitani e abrasivi della giungla d’asfalto.

 

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