TOM FORD BLACK ORCHID: PERFECT FLOWER

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Tom Ford is celebrating 10 years of BLACK ORCHID with a limited-edition in partnership with Lalique.

This is not recent news, its possible to find it in most Tom Ford boutiques since a couple of months ago, but it remains a novelty. From the intriguing packaging made by Lalique, glossy black, characterized by thick decorative lines and inspired by the originality of Art Déco, which keeps what you want to mantain secret to the dark bouquet of oriental agreements. Black Orchid is the first fragrance by Tom Ford created in 2006. To celebrate the tenth anniversary from the debut of the historic fragrance, (mainly known for publicity stunts with softcore scenes) the brand has created the Lalique Edition: a limited edition of 1200 copies all over the world. Created by perfumers of Givaudan, Black Orchid is a dark and opulent overture that would have made fallen in love for it most decadent poets; born with the goal of capturing the perfume of flower Black Orchid, “the flower par excellence, sumptuous, elegant, pure, sophisticated“.

blackorchid-alessionesiTOM FORD BLACK ORCHID Eau de Parfum

Top notes are a voluptuous mix of black truffle and ylang ylang, combined with fresh Bergamot and a bit of Blackcurrant’s liveliness. In the heart of the fragrance the exclusive Black Orchid granted with fruity scents enhanced by Lotus wood. Finally, the sillage, which combine agreements of Vanilla, Patchouli, Frankincense, Vetiver and Sandalwood. The Lalique Edition is part of a range of eight products all complementary to the fragrance that make up the Orchid Collection. Mr Ford has made beauty an expression of pure desire, spreading it with narrative suggestions. Uniqueness as a way of life, magnificent and misty, is the essential component of any of his products where he can create worlds in which the viewer identifies with the arts of seduction of which Ford is a master.

 

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PUNK ESPRIT

Provocation and formal rigor. Boldness and elegance: to seize the two souls of fashion a new and irreverent creativity declined on accessories, perfumes and make-up starting from next spring. Halfway between underground irreverence and café society.

louboutin-alessionesiPijonina Veau Velours 100 mm by CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN

dior-alessionesiAddict LipStick by DIOR

ferragamo-alessionesiSignorina in fiore Eau de Parfum  SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

 

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NEIL BARRETT’S CONSTRUCTIVISM

Direction NEIL BARRETT Interview and Beauty Consultant ALESSIO NESI Make Up Artist MASSIMILIANO DELLA MAGGESA Photography CAROLINA AMORETTI

Neil Barrett’s aesthetic provides a taste of dry and minimal lines. The cut follows principles of abduction and summary in oder to find the absolute form in the outline of the figure, severe and essential. This same way, even the search for make-up, status symbols of every fashion-house, identifies a DNA made of detached purism. Elegant, not improvised, Neil Barrett’s neo grooming is a semiotic system of pure and “constructivist” geometric forms.

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Simple signs, interpreted through monochrome black, saturated and opaque, express an independent soul, synthesize a unique body of work condensed into a visual story made of six images, which, in this global area, resets the differences between male and female and do not abandon themselves to the ghosts of the past.

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How would you describe your work in purely aesthetic terms? Graphic blocking, neutral colours plus one accent only.
 How was  the make-up of Neil Barrett realised ? Which the developments? To take specific graphic images that we use in our prints, interiors and packaging and apply them to another canvas, the face.

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Which is your relationship with colour and how do you approach the relationship with make up? I like to achieve impact without using colour to see all trough monochromatic black and white lense and still have the strenght of the image. Otherwise when I do use colour, I use one colour only or many tones of one colour.

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Your definition of beauty? Purity of line, balanced imperfection.

 How did your relationship with Video develop? It’s a backstage of this work, as we would do with a fashion show… but recorded spontaneously with an Iphone.

 

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CHRISTMAS GIFTS – BLACKPEPPER: THE MODERN ENIGMA BY COMME DES GARÇONS

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BlackPepper is an electric collision of molecules, a clash between spicy, pepper grains suspended in an endless darkness“. This is the way to describe the new unisex fragrance by Comme des Garçons. The cult brand for fashion victims, after revolutionizing the fashion world, destabilizes the rules of perfumery by creating olfactory compositions known for the continuous research of material expression into the unknown. In the latest fragrance called Blackpepper, black Pepper from Madagascar becomes the key ingredient of a sillage similar to a carom of molecules: a myriad of black Pepper grains soar in total darkness.

cdg-alessionesiEau de Parfum Blackpepper by COMME DES GARÇONS

Agreements of Cedarwood, Hagar, Patchouli and the caramel resin of Tonka Bean that gives to its harmony an hypnotic coté, are added to spicy notes. Blackpepper is a subversive and convincing experiment because it reproduces in a metaphoric key enigmatic odors and the dynamics of underground reality in an olfactory crash.

 

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CHLOÉ LA VIE EN ROSES

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Just when we gave up hope of smelling something different from the usual advertising slogans there we go, Chloé Fleur de Parfum arrives in perfumeries to produce an immediate poetry, romantic and evocative as a flag. The Rose, olfactory signature of the parisian fashion house, just after eight years since its creation has been the protagonist of various interpretations, exploring the different aspects of this flower.

chloe-alessionesiCHLOÉ FLEUR DE PARFUM

Today Chloé garden is enriched with a new voluptuous version. The olfactory pyramid, created by noses Michel Almairac and Mylène Alran, was built straight from the heart of the Rose and mixed with Cherry flowers and Almond milk, to give roundness to the fragrance, maintaining that indistinguishable light caress on bare skin. Ten seconds are more than enough to project ourselves in the golden light that illuminates an autumn evening. Essential.

 

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INTERCHANGEABLE FRAGRANCES BY PRADA

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Two new perfumes enrich the perfumery world of Prada; created by the nose of the fashion house, Daniela Andrier, these two new scents are the quintessence of the brand. Studied to delineate and define two sides of the same coin: the feminine world and the masculine one, of the brand of course, both combined in an osmotic dialogue. Interchangeable fragrances, to accompany the wearer on a journey through time and space in a continous flow just as contemporary fashion, closed within itself, made of frictions and rigorous contrasts but always perfectly immersed in an upper middle class atmosphere.

prada-alessionesi LA FEMME PRADA Eau de Parfum

La Femme by Prada, in particular, is a fragrance from the eastern floral group, created with spices agreements, beeswax, Frangipani, Tuberose, Iris, Ylang Ylang and a base of Vetiver and Vanilla. Miuccia Prada thinks of a fluid feminine identity, changing, and she does it by evoking multiple female identities. In contrast with the male counterpart. The result? Anyone can identify with it and make it their own.

 

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MYSTERIOUS NOTES OF MCQUEEN EAU DE PARFUM

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McQueen Eau de Parfum is the new fragrance created by his Perfume House designed by Sarah Burton. The main ingredients are a nocturnal flower bouquet of Sambac Jasmine, Tuberose and Ylang Ylang. Round notes, opulent and mysterious. In perfect balance with the dark nature of the fashion house. Key essences of haute parfumerie, combined with pink Pepper, Vetiver and avant-garde techniques.

mcqueen-alessionesi MCQUEEN Eau de Parfum

Besides the gothic meanings attributed to the notes of night flowers, the extrait creates a bright and contemplative olfactory composition, its simplicity and its acute nostalgia make this product a good start for McQueen Perfume House .

 

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THE NEW CHANEL N5: PRAISE OF PURITY

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Chanel N ° 5 is not just a perfume, but an olfactory heritage: a precise idea of elegance and femininity from generation to generation. In 1924, only three years after the creation of the extract, Ernest Beaux introduced the Eau de Toilette version. In 1986, Jacques Polge created the Eau de Parfum. Today, his son Olivier Polge, enfant prodige of contemporary parfumery, has literally reinvented and reshaped No. 5 with a reductionist approach and with detached purism.

n5-alessionesi N°5 L’EAU CHANEL

With the same meticulousness of a swiss goldsmith, Polge has studied and revised the entire olfactory pyramid, reducing to minimum grade all raw materials, assigning the greatest degree of expression creating light and changeable agreements: Rose mingles with Jasmine along with Vanilla and a new fraction of Ylang Ylang, increasing the vibrations of various zest, while the aldehyde smells of orange peel, abandoning the metallic notes. The result is an unprecedented olfactory variation, prais of purity and essentiality. N 5 L’EAU is the new N 5 of today.

 

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GUCCI GUILTY: A NEW CHAPTER

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Gender free marketing, as professionals like to call it, corresponds to the sum of ways to communicate to an audience equally male and female with products that relying on general aspirations, jump over sex differences. The very last example on the market are the new fragrances by GUCCI GUILTY, For Him and For Her. They tell the new aesthetic vision of Creative Director Alessandro Michele, started from catwalks and now spread to every aspect of the brand, including the world of fragrances. These fragrances celebrate emancipated sexuality, individuality and charm of the indefinite.

gucci-guilty-alessionesiMy interpretation of GUCCI GUILTY For Her and For HIM

The new olfactory agreements reflect the new attitude of the brand. They represent freedom breaking patterns through agreements of traditional male and female fragrances. GUCCI GUILTY For Her, for example, is defined by a special agreement fougere of Geranium, usually used in men fragrances, together with the flower of lilac and Amber which together gives the fragrance warmth and grace. GUCCI GUILTY For Him, conversely, opens with a note of lemon, enhanced by lavender and patchouli and is distinguished by the sensuality of orange flower that accentuates the charm of the fragrance without conforming to classic male essences. New Gucci Fragrances mix genres and break down stereotypes. Have formulas him / her, are created for changeable and open minded identities.

 

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MON PARIS THE NEW FRAGRANCE BY YSL

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In the second half of last century when Yves Saint Laurent was creating his collections, he was always influenced by whatever was going on around him. His clothes were beautiful, especially the collection of 1978, an objective fact. In a time when App for new experiences are absolutely exploding, love becomes fluid, we love outside of our usual schemes. Everything is mixed to the underground and to music. Mon Paris, the new fragrance by Yves Saint Laurent, is a calm chaos, it creates the vertigo of a love story that lives the instant euphoria. Harmony inspired by the essence of the Ville Lumière, but if you expected the classical retro trail of scent, you will be disappointed, Mon Paris is the first narcotic white chypre with an hypnotic sillage created by the collaboration of three famous perfumers: Oliver Cresp, Dora Bagriche and Harry Fremont.

MonParis-AlessioNesi My interpretation of Mon Paris YSL

The olfactory harmony reverses the usual structure of chypre scents, composed by the elixir of Datura – hallucinogenic and poisonous flower, used by the Aztecs in their shamanistic rites and captured by Firmenich with the headspace technique – softened by the variety of Patchouli from Guatemala and Indonesia which create a persistent base over time. Essential as a smoking jacket, feverish as the city to which it is dedicated, Mon Paris, is a lysergic fragrance that keeps suspended and inert in a state of apparent calm right in line with the zeitgeist. A masterpiece.

 

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