Non-gender as professionals call it is a way of communicating to a male and female audience with products that leverage general aspirations, by passing gender differences. Today it is of great trend in the fields of food (some foods such as yogurt, for example, have often been considered for females and others, such as wines, purely male and communication was declined accordingly) music and furnishings and it touches the territories of cosmetics and fashion.

 Editorial from L’Hofficiel Homme Italia MAISON MARGIELA ARTISANAL AW19 designed by John Galliano Photographed by Kito Munoz Styled by Luca Guarini.

Beauty has decided not to deprive itself of this trend that leverages the new relationships established between couples and not even Fashion does it; infact shows androgynous and casual collections with light silhouettes . It is a new lifestyle. Boundaries are blurred. There is masculinity in women and vice versa. It is a form of disguise that affects all fields: from fashion to beauty, to design. A more playful approach is established with one’s own identity: current society requires flexibility, in work, in daily jobs, in relationships with others. Values ​​and recent political and financial crises have called everything into question. Traditional models of eternal male and female do not disappear completely but the expression of identity becomes freer and more open. A new balance is established, in which each sex borrows from the other what finds good and useful.

From left: Emulsion Ecologique by SISLEY PARIS; Him/Her Lip Balm by GIORGIO ARMANI

The cosmetic sector, that has always marked the gender aspect, redesigns borders by widening the offer. The taboo was broken in 2016 by Canadian brand MACCOSMETICS, which proposed a collection of unisex make-up, aimed at an indifferently male and female audience. Giorgio Armani made his voyage into gender free with a Him/Her lip balm. It perfectly matches male needs for the speed and the ease of its application as well as female ones as a base for lipsticks or as a top coat with a satin effect. Another interesting example is Emulsion Ecologique by Sisley Paris, an essential treatment with a plant-based texture. it hydrates and protects skin from stress. Men like it for its light texture and practical bottle design.

 From above: Collection AW2020 RANDOM IDENTITIESCollection AW2020 FENDI

From cosmetic to fashion the step was short. In the latest men fashion shows, from Pittmagine passing from Milano Collezioni to “la ville lumiere”, we have seen the rise of fashion brands that release themselves from too defined models. RANDOM IDENTITIES for example, Stefano Pilati’s label, is, already in its own name, a binomial where Random represents the randomness of existence and Identities comes as a response to this randomness, defining the space in which people can identify the new codes of movement gender. Stefano Pilati’s new project is a ready-to-wear collection designed specifically for the digital age.

From above: Collection AW2020 GUCCI; Collection AW2020 N21Collection AW2020 DRIES VAN NOTEN;Collection AW2020 GIVENCHY;

The non-gender garments incorporate an original tension towards provocation, skillfully controlled through monochromatic choices and neat details. Even in the collections by GUCCI, FENDI, N21by ALESSANDRO DELL’ACQUA, RICK OWENS, VALENTINO, DRIES VAN NOTEN, CHRISTIAN DIOR, GIVENCHY men could exchange clothes with women and nobody would notice.

 From above: Collection AW2020 RICK OWENS Collection AW2020 VALENTINOCollection AW2020 LOUIS VUITTON

The evolution of current aestheticism is called beauty sharing, true sharing agreements, from cosmetics to fashion collections. Even women use male moisturizers as well as men wear female clothes. He and she sublimate themselves in a neutral two-way identity that acquires in the present a rediscovered rituality for new and old generations in the present. The style of the new decade has been served.

 Body jewelry AW2020 by LUDOVIC de SAINT SERNIN



In fashion nowadays on everything theres a rochy Saint Laurent air, because Hedi Slimane managed to reset global clock since the times of the collections for Dior Homme. The effect is seen on almost all male catwalks.


DIOR HOMME by HEDI SLIMANE  – Solitaire – F-W- 2001-2002 – ph R. Avedon

The featherless boys by Slimane. An aesthetic journey began 15 years ago. Skinny rockers, electric metissage which today from Saint Laurent is a little more than a styling exercise, which succeeds where others fail: sell the dream of eternal youth.


Male catwalks SAINT LAURENT by HEDI SLIMANE. From left: Fall-Winter 2015, Spring-Summer 2016. 


Male catwalks. From left: LANVIN Paris Fall-Winter 2015, PAUL SMITH Spring-Summer 2016.

Su tutto ormai nella moda aleggia un’aria rock alla Saint Laurent, perché Hedi Slimane è riuscito a resettare l’orologio globale dello stile già ai tempi delle collezioni di Dior Homme. L’effetto lo si vede in quasi tutte le passerelle maschili. I ragazzi implume di Slimane. Un percorso estetico iniziato 15 anni fa. Skinny rockers, metissage elettrico che oggi da Saint Laurent è poco più di un esercizio di styling, ma che riesce dove gli altri falliscono: vendere il sogno dell’eterna giovinezza.